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Leg-stretchers for the season's first hike

Sunset, March, 1985

While the high country is still locked in snow, California's coastal mountains are spring green, their trails lined with wildflowers. If you're planning to do some mountain backpacking this summer, it's not too soon to start trail-toughening your legs and lungs.

Where can you find "warmup" hikes special enough to warrant a day-long outing or even an overnight trip? We talked to hiking clubs and park rangers to find four topnotch trails just outside the San Francisco Bay Area. Each of the four is located in a public preserve (see map at right).

Though you don't have to struggle against high altitudes on these trails, they still provide enough of a challenge to strengthen your muscles, limber up your knees, and boot-harden your feet. They range in length from 8 to 10-1/2 miles round trip, with a 1,300- to 2,900-foot elevation gain and loss. Along the way, you may see splashes of wildflowers, shy wildlife, and glorious views.

Before you hit the trail. Examine your backpacking gear; if anything needs replacing, buy it now and try it out on these hikes. Remember, new boots take a while to break in; new packs may ride too high or rub on your hips (you may need additional padding). Wear the same clothes you would on a backpack trip; it's best to find out ahead if those pants are too binding or if those socks are too loose.

If you'll be making your first long hike of the season, allow extra time so you don't have to push. On all hikes bring plenty of water and a lunch.

We descirbe normal weather conditions for each location, but rain can persist through April. It's wise to call ahead for weather and trail reports.

1. An 8-mile trek in wild Ventana

In Los Padres National Forest, Ventana Wilderness occupies more than 160,000 acres of steep coastal mountain terrain. From Monterey, take STate 1 south about 15 miles to narrow Palo Colorado Road; turn left and follow it 8 twisty miles southeast to the trailhead at Bottchers Gap. A free wilderness permit is required; call a week ahead at (408) 667-2423 or 385-5434.

Devil's Peak trail: 8 miles round trip, 2,110-foot elevation gain. This is perhaps the toughest trail of the four we've chosen. From the north end of the parking area, take the Skinner Ridge Trail up a gradual incline past majestic madrone, bay, and oak trees. You'll see some dead trees--reminders of the big 1977 Marble Cone fire. Keep to the left at each of the trail's two forks.

At 3 miles, the steep ascent begins. The trail dips into a saddle and crosses Turner Creek Trail (not the sign), Some 200 yards north, take the trail to the left (not the fire trail straight ahead). As the narrow path winds up to the summit, you may pass lupine, poppy, and Indian paintbrush. Atop the 4,160-foot summit, look for a smashing clear-day view: the corrugated ridges of the Santa Lucia Range to the south and east; the sparkling Pacific to the west. Backtrack to return.

Weather, camping. March and April days are generally sunny, but bring warm clothes in case of fog and wind. May through mid-September days are often intensely hot. Watch out for abundant poison oak year-round.

There's camping at Bottchers Gap (11 sites on first-come basis, $3 per night) and in wilderness camps (permit required; call one of the numbers above).

2. A 10-1/2-mile loop in rocky wonderland

At Pinnacles National Monument, 80 miles south of San Jose, eroded volcanic spires present an imposing challenge to any hiker. To reach the park's east entrance from south-bound U.S. 101, take STate 25 south 42 miles through Hollister to State 146; follow signs to the visitor center (408/389-4578).

Pinnacles loop: 10-1/2 miles, 1,400-foot elevation gain. Our route climbs into the heart of the pinnacles, then down, the less-exposed western slope where you'll see spring wildflowers--buckbrush, tiny pink shooting stars, and carpets of goldfields.

From the visitor center, take the Moses Spring Trail; it winds past Bear Gulch Caves, one of the park's highlights. These aren't real caves, but narrow canyons roofed by huge fallen rocks wedged between canyon walls. Closed in March 1983 because of flood damage, they were reopened last November. If you go through the caves, carry a flashlight and follow the white arros.

Past the caves, climb up stairs in the rock to the edge of Bear Gulch Reservoir. Follow the steep High Peaks Trail through chaparral toward the jutting pinnacles. From Scout Peak, take a few minutes to look west to Salinas Valley and south to North Chalone Peak.

Continue on the High Peaks Trail as it twists through the maze of pinnacles, over a wooden bridge safeguarded by cable handholds, and down steps carved into the rock by CCC workers before World War II.

Join the Juniper Canyon Trail as it descends steeply, leaving the pinnacles behind. At the bottom, replenish your water supply at Chaparral Campground, then start back on the Balconies Trail through a rocky gorge between the Balconies Cliffs and the 400-foot spires of jagged Machete Ridge. The Balconies Trail becomes Old Pinnacles Trail, an easy wooded route around the base of the pinnacles. At Chalone Creek picnic area, take Bear Gulch Trail back to the visitor center.

 

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