Up from Cabo San Lucas, almost 50 newly paved miles

73.2 km (54.4). Opposite the cluster of white buildings that is El Pescadero, an uppaved cutoff bears left, paralleling the road. If you see the primitive gate open (sometimes the ranch gate is closed), continue to Playa San Pedro, a favored camping spot of vacationers in the spring.

76.0 km (49.1). A wide, graded dirt road leads .5 km (.3 mile) to Playa Punta Lobos, home of the Todos Santos fishing fleet, comprised of some two dozen colorful pangas. These boats come in with their catches between 2 and 3 P.M. weekdays, a bit later on weekends. You're likely to see locals spearfishing for octopus from rocks near road's end. This beach is not recommended for swimming, but you can walk miles northward.

77.5 km (48.0). Paving ends at the town of Todos Santos. Colonial-looking buildings around the flagstone-paved town center data from the 1860s. Narrow roads lined with eucalyptus and concrete irrigation ditches fan out into surrounding farmland planted in sugar-cane, citrus, mangoes, and bananas. Neon-bright blazes of bougainvillea cloak fences and roofs.

Paving resumes on the north outskirts of town. From Todos Santos to Santos to La Paz, it's 84 km (52 miles) of easy driving.