On the desert or in your dining room, an Arizona barbecue for 6 to 16

Sunset, March, 1985

As the Arizona sun sets, candles and luminarias light the way to this outdoor dinner party. In the Southwest's low desert, mild March nights are favorite times for such outdoor entertaining. Elsewhere in the West, where fair March weather is less predictable, this picnic menu adapts easily for indoor dining.

This desert dinner party was desined by the Men's League of the Scottsdale Culinary Festival, a fiesta held every February to support the Scottsdale Center for the arts. We've scaled it down to a party for 12 to 16, and also given you the choice of splitting the menu to make 2 separate parties, each to serve 6 to 8. The recipes have many make-ahead steps, and directions for transporting foods, if desired.

The flavors of this meal reflect Arizona's Indian, Mexican, and Anglo culinary heritage. If you serve it as a picnic, choose a site with barbecue facilities or carry along your own gear. Since you will use the barbecue to grill the birds, cook the rice, and reheat many of the other dishes, you will need a lot of grill space--3 grills of about 22-inch diameter.

Spring desert picnic

for 12 to 16 Jicama Appetizer with Lime and Chili Beef and Pork Picado Grilled Birds with Jalapeno Jelly Glaze Black Bean s Maid's Rice Cilantro Slaw Pinon Fingers Bunuelos Baked Apples with Cowboy Cream Wine Beer Sparkling Water

If you serve the meal at home, you can grill the birds on the barbecue on the patio or roast them in the oven. Recipes for beans, rice, slaw, and salad are on page 184. Jicama Appetizer with Lime and Chili To serve 6 to 8, use only 1-1/2 pounds jicama and 1/3 cup lime juice. 3 pounds jicama, peeled 2/3 cup lime juice Coarse (such as kosher) or regular salt Chili powder or cayenne

Cut jicama into 1/8-inch-thick slices or into sticks about 1/2 inch wide and 3 to 4 inches long. If done ahead, package airtight and chill as long as 1 day. To transport, pack jicama and lime juice in an insulated chest to keep cold; bring along salt and chili powder.

To serve, mix jicama in lime juice, then arrange jicama in a bowl, on a platter, or in a basket lined with plastic wrap. Pour remaining lime juice over jicama; sprinkle with salt and chili powder to taste. Makes 12 to 16 servings. Beef and Pork Picado 2 pounds each boneless beef chuck and boneless pork butt or shoulder 2 medium-size onions, cut into wedges 2 medium-size green bell peppers, seeded, cored, and cut into large chunks 2 cups regular strength beef broth 4 medium-size tomatoes, cored and cut into wedges 4 cloves garlic, minced or pressed 1 fresh or pickled jalapeno chili, including seeds, minced 1/4 teaspoon pepper Salt Water

Cut beef and pork, including fat, into about 1- by 1-1/2- by 1-1/2-inch pieces; place in a 5- to 6-quart pan. Cover and cook over medium-high heat to draw juices out of meat, about 10 minutes.

Uncover meat and cook on high heat, boiling until liquid evaporates and stirring occasionally. Add onion and bell pepper; cook meat and vegetables in the rendered fat, stirring frequently, until meat is fairly evenly browned. Add broth, tomato, garlic, chili, and pepper; stir to release browned bits from pan bottom.

Reduce heat to keep liquid at a simmer; cover and cook until meat is tender enough to shred easily when pulled apart with a fork, about 2-1/2 hours.

Uncover and boil over medium-high heat until juices are reduced just below the top of the meat and slightly thickened, stirring more frequently as mixture thickens; add salt to taste.

Serve; or, if made ahead, let cool, cover, and chill as long as 1 day. To transport, keep cold in an insulated chest. Reheat, covered, on low heat or on barbecue grill over medium-hot coals; stir often and add water if needed to prevent sticking. Serve from pan or bowl. Makes 12 to 16 servings in big party menu, 6 to 8 servings in small party menu. Grilled Birds with Jalapeno Jelly Glaze

Barbecue or oven-roast birds. Order quail at your meat market; they are usually frozen but may be available fresh. 12 to 24 (3 to 4 oz. each) quail, or 6 to 8 (about 1-1/2 lb. each) Rock Cornish game hens About 1/2 cup (1/4 lb.) butter or margarine 2 tablespoons lime juice 1 jar (about 7-1/2 oz.) jalapeno jelly Salt and pepper Cilantro slaw (optional; recipe on page 184)

With poultry shears (or have your meatman do it), cut through backbone of quail, or cut game hens in half. Rinse birds; pat dry. To transport, keep birds, butter, and lime juice cold in an insulated chest. Bring jalapeno jelly, salt, and pepper. Also transport the cilantro slaw cold in an insulated chest.

Combine 1/4 cup of the butter and the jalapeno jelly in a 1- to 2-quart pan; stir until melted on medium-high heat or on the barbecue over hot coals. Stir in lime juice; set aside.

To barbecue quail or game hens, sprinkle them lightly with salt and pepper. Place quail (opened flat, bones down) or hen halves (bones down) on a grill about 6 inches above a solid bed of medium-hot to hot coals. (For quail, you should be able to hold your hand at grill level for about 3 seconds before it is uncomfortable; for hens, 8 seconds. Coals should extend beyond area covered by birds.)