On the desert or in your dining room, an Arizona barbecue for 6 to 16

Sunset, March, 1985

Barbecue quail until browned and breast is light pink at the bone (cut to test), 7 to 8 minutes; turn several times and baste frequently the last 5 minutes with jelly mixture, using all of it (coals may flare).

Barbecue hens until browned and breast is no longer pink at bone (cut to test), 30 to 40 minutes; turn several times and baste with jelly mixture the last 15 minutes, using all of it.

To oven-roast quail, melt 2 aditional tablespoons butter in a 12- to 14-inch nonstick frying pan on medium-high heat. Open quail out flat, then add to pan, skin down and without crowding; cook until skin is lightly browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Remove from pan as browned and arrange, bones down and side by side, in 10- by 15-inch baking pans. Brown remaining quail in pan as space permits; if butter scorches, wipe from pan with a paper towel and add more butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, as needed. (At this point, you can cover quail and chill as long as overnight. Bring to room temperature to continue.) Brush quail with jelly mixture and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Bake in a 500 [deg.] oven, uncovered, basting once or twice and using all the jelly mixture, until breasts are light pink at bone (cut to test), 5 to 7 minutes.

To oven-roast game hens, place birds, bones down and side by side, on racks in 10- by 15-inch baking pans. Brush with jelly mixture and sprinkle lightly with salt and pepper. Bake in a 400 [deg.] oven, uncovered, until breast is white at bone (cut to test), 30 to 40 minutes, baste occasionally, using all the jelly mixture.

Line a platter with cilantro slaw, if desired, and arrange birds on top. Makes 12 to 16 servings with big party menu, 6 to 8 servings with small party menu. Baked Apples with Cowboy Cream 4 medium-size Red Delicious apples 1/4 cup each melted butter or margarine, firmly packed brown sugar, and coffee-flavored liqueur Cowboy cream (recipe follows) 2 cinnamon sticks, each about 3 inches, or ground cinnamon

Core apples, then cut into 1/8- to 1/4-inch-thick wedges. Overlap wedges in a buttered shallow 9- to 10-inch round baking dish or pan. Pour butter over apples; sprinkle with brown sugar and liqueur; sprinkle with brown sugar and liqueur. Bake, uncovered, in a 350[deg.] oven until apples are tender when pierced, 35 to 45 minutes. Serve them warm or at room temperature.

If made ahead, let cool, cover, and chill up to 2 days. Transport without insulation.

To reheat, cover and place in a 350[deg.] oven or on the grill over medium coals until warmed, about 20 minutes. Top with cream and cinnamon; spoon into bowls. Makes 12 to 16 servings with big party menu, 6 to 8 with small party menu.

Cowboy Cream. In a bowl, combine 1 cup whipping cream, 1 tablespoon each powdered sugar and coffee-flavored liqueur, and 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon. Whip until cream holds peaks. Use, or chill, covered, up to 4 hours. To transport, keep cold in an insulated chest; stir to serve. Pinon Fingers Pinon is Spanish for pine nuts. 1 cup (1/2 lb.) butter or margarine, at room temperature 2-1/4 cups powdered sugar 2 teaspoons vanilla 2 cups all-purpose flour 1 cup pine nuts