Ask if your tasters recognize it. This is corned turkey

Sunset, June, 1985

Steeped in a spicy brining mixture, turkey takes on new qualities. It tastes meatier. Simmered to tenderness, the meat is moist and succulent despite its natural leanness. And if you're watching calories, corned turkey is a delicious alternative to fattier corned beef.

The corning process is easily managed: you just put turkey parts in a double-thick plastic bag, add a seasoned salt-sugar brine, and refrigerate for a few days. How long you keep the meat in the brine ranges from two to six days and depends on the weight and thickness of the pieces--wings take less time than breasts. Minimum time yields turkey with the lightest salt flavor. Full-term brining produces the moistest texture.

To control and reduce the salty taste from the brine, rinse turkey pieces well under running water before cooking, massaging meat gently to remove as much salt as possible.

Start with the basic recipe for corned turkey; this includes both the brining and the cooking steps.

Serve the cooked meat hot or cold, as is, or use it as the starting point for other dishes. Finish boiled corned turkey with a baked-on glaze for a variation on a classic boiled dinner. Cold cooked corned turkey fills in for corned beef in Reuben sandwiches, in a cold salad, and in hash.

Basic Corned Turkey 2 to 5 pounds turkey parts, all one kind or a mixture: thighs (3/4 to 1-1/2 lb. each),legs (1/2 to 1-1/2 lb. each), wings (3/4 to 1-1/4 lb. each), half-breasts with bone in (2 to 3-1/2 lb. each), or boned half-breasts (1-1/4 to 2-3/4 lb. each) Water 1/2 cup salt 2 tablespoons firmly packed brown sugar 1 tablespoon pickling spice 2 cloves garlic, peeled

Put 1 plastic food storage bag (about 2-gal. size) inside another bag the same size, then add turkey pieces. Set double bag in a shallow pan that's wide enough so turkey pars can lie flat.

Combine 1 quart hot water, salt, sugar, spice, and garlic. Stir to dissolve salt and sugar. Let cool, then pour over turkey. Close bags and seal with a twist.

Refrigerate turkey in brine, turning bag over at least twice a day.

Allow 2 to 3 days to corn pieces that weigh 1/2 to 1-1/2 pounds each.

Allow 4 to 6 days for pieces that weigh 1-3/4 to 3-1/2 pounds each.

Rinse corned turkey under cool running water, massaging meat gently to release as much salt as possible. Put parts in a 5- to 6-quart pan and add water to cover. Bring to a boil on high heat; cover, then simmer over low heat until meat on thighs, legs, and wings pulls easily from bone, 1 to 1-1/2 hours; or until breast is white in center (cut to test), about 45 minutes. Drain and serve hot or cold; discard skin and bone if desired. For each serving allow (raw weight) about 1/2 pound thigh, 3/4 to 1 pound leg, 1 pound wings, 1/2 pound bone-in or 1/3 pound boned breast.

Glazed Corned Turkey Platter 3 to 4 pounds corned turkey breast, legs, and/or thighs, cooked and hot (see basic recipe) Honey glaze (recipe follows) 1 to 1-1/2 pounds each small turnips (about 1-1/2-in. diameter), scrubbed, and carrots (5 to 6 in. long), peeled Water Parsley Prepared horseradish

Put turkey, skin side up, in a shallow pan (at least 9 by 13 in.); brush with honey glaze. Bake, uncovered, in a 375[deg.] oven until turkey browns, about 30 minutes. Baste often, using all the glaze.

At the same time, in a covered 4- to 5-quart pan, cook turnips and carrots in boiling water to cover until tender when pierced, about 20 minutes. If ready before turkey, set vegetables off heat; drain to serve. Arrange turkey and vegetables on a platter; garnish with parsley. Slice turkey; serve with horseradish. Serves 4 to 6.

Honey glaze. Stir together 3 tablespoons honey, 2 teaspoons soy sauce, and 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard.

Turkey Reuben Sandwiches 2 cups drained canned sauerkraut 2 or 3 fresh or dry bay leaves 5 or 6 dry juniper berries, slightly crushed 3 to 4 pounds corned bone-in turkey breast, legs, and/or thighs, cooked and hot or at room temperature (see basic recipe) 1 pound swiss cheese Dill pickles Light or dark rye bread, loaf or sliced Reuben dressing (recipe follows) Romaine lettuce leaves, washed and crisped

Mix sauerkraut with bay leaves and juniper berries and put in a 2- to 3-cup jar or bowl; cover and let stand at room temperature at least an hour or refrigerate overnight.

Arrange turkey pieces, cheese, pickles, and bread on a board or platter, along with a knife and, if desired, cheese slicer. Accompany with sauerkraut, dressing in a bowl, and lettuce in a basket or bowl.

To make sandwiches, tear or cut turkey into pieces (the legs have coarse tendons you need to separate from the meat) and combine turkey, sauerkraut, cheese, pickles, dressing, and lettuce--as you like--between slices of bread. Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Reuben dressing. Combine 1/4 cup catsup or tomato-based chili sauce and 1 cup mayonnaise; stir to blend. Serve, or cover and refrigerate as long as a week.

Corned Turkey and Two-Bean Salad 1 quart water 1 pound slender green beans or haricots verts, ends trimmed About 2 cups boned, skinned, and slivered cooked corned turkey, hot or cold (see basic recipe) 1 can (260 grams, about 8 oz. drained wieght) flageolet beans, drained, or cooked flageolets (directions follow) Mustard dressing (recipe follows) 8 to 18 large escarole leaves, washed and crisped Tiny escarole leaves for garnish (optional) Nicoise olives