H. Manago Hotel

H. Manago Hotel, Box 145, Captain Cook, 96704; 323-2642. Founded in 1917, this family-run hotel on State 11, 11 miles south of Kailua, has 42 rooms. Don't be put off by the dark, well-used look of the lobby; many of the rooms, though small and unadorned, offer wonderful views of the south Kona Coast from ocean-facing lanais. The hotel restaurant serves good hearty meals three times daily; pork chops are the house dinner specialty.

Shared-bath singles are $13, doubles $15, triples $17. Private-bath singles are $18 to $21, doubles $21 to $24. The sole Japanese room, complete with tatami mats, futon bed, shoji screens, and whirlpool bath, costs $30 for one person, $35 for two. Reserve this room well in advance.

Within a few miles' drive from the hotel are Kealakekua Bay, where Captain Cook was killed in 1779, St. Benedict's painted church, and Puuhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park (City of Refuge). If you're here between 10 and 3 on June 28 to June 30, you can enjoy the park's 24th anniversary celebration, with opening ceremonis and demonstrations of ancient Hawaiian village life style on Friday, arts and crafts exhibits on Saturday, and Hawaiian food tasting and a hukilau (fishing with nets) on Sunday.