Island hopping by ferry in the Northwest. Here are 5 adventures

Sunset, August, 1985

Island hopping by ferry in the Northwest. Here are 5 adventures Deckhands scramble as the ferry glides toward the dock, the resonant blast of its horn still echoing across the bay. Steel chains clang and giant hawsers slither across the car deck as passengers sprint for their autos.

Suddenly the green sea erupts into a roiling froth when the ferry's forward engines hit reverse. The big ship--three stories tall, 450 feet long, 3,200 tons--slows and nearly stops, rocks gently to the ramp, and eases into temporary union with the land.

Although locals tend to take it for granted, the docking of one of these giants of the Northwest ferry fleet is a magical moment, as improbable in its way as the touchdown of a jumbo jet.

Every day across Puget Sound and up the inland sea stretching into Canada, the ferries come and go, more than 60 boats making over 600 sailings daily on some 30 routes. It's the largest ferry fleet in the world and a vital link in the Northwest]s transportation network. But the ferries are also a delighful way to travel, touched with romance and promising adventure.

Here we offer five adventures that help you explore the Northwest's inland sea, ranging from half a day from Seattle to Bainbridge Island, to several days on a grand four-ferry loop through breathtaking fiord country north of Vancouver.

You'll need a ferry schedule in hand to plan your outing. Write or call Washington State Ferries, Pier 52, Seattle 98104, (206) 464-6400; and B.C. Ferries, 818 Broughton St., Victoria V8W 1E4, (604) 386-3431. They'll also send you route maps, fleet guides, trip suggestions, information on several independent carriers, useful phone numbers, and the like.

Our listings give one-way fares unless otherwise stated; they're in U.S. dollars.

An improving, expanding ferry network

Six new Washington state ferries have settled into reliable service, with similar expansion in British Columbia. As a result, the usual lineups on holidays and summer weekends have been reduced or eliminated on all but the most popular routes.

It's still advisable for motorists to get reservations on the popular sailings to Victoria through the San Juan Island (foot passengers never have to wait). Even here, service has been improved this season, but motorists without reservations may have to wait through two departures before getting aboard.

Several Puget Sound terminals are bing upgraded, and a long-range plan calls for a new terminal for the Seattle waterfront (beginning in 1986), rebuilding several historic 1927 ferries (1986), the addition of passenger-only ferries on Seatle commuter routes (1988), and better service on almost every route.

In British Columbia, where the 25th anniversary of B.C. Ferries is being celebrated, terminals are being renovated and an improved car-reservation procedure is smoothing travel to the scenic Gulf Islands.

Tips for more enjoyable trips

* Avoiding delays. Get reservations for your car where available, especially in August. Generally, Washington state ferries run from about 5 A.M. to 10 P.M. or later; least crowded times are midweek between 10 and 4. In B.C., hours are shorter, schedules vary more, and traffic is fairly steady throughout the week.

* Ferry food or a creative picnic? All but the smallest ferries offer cafeterias, with fare ranging from fish-and-chips and hamburgers to soups and sandwiches; prices are reasonable. Or bring your own picnic. You can also arrange in advance to reserve a section of most Washington State Ferries for a children's birthday party, family reunion, or other get-together; call (206) 464-6804.

* Traveling by bicycle (or canoe)? Normally, bikers board and unload ahead of cars and will find marked spots for tying up bicycles (you pay foot-passenger fare, plus $2 to $3 for your bike). Foot passengers on most routes may also walk on with a kayak or canoe at no charge; this may change soon.

* Weather and dress. Breezy weather is the rule. Bring warm clothes and rain gear (it can pour in the Northwest even in August). Better yet, head for the heated, glass-covered sundecks on most larger ferries, or look for windless nooks; don't forget sunglasses.

* Wildlife. Sea birds, killer whales, dolphins, harbor seals, and sea lions can be seen on several crossing; bring binoculars or a camera with a long lens.

1. Half-day on-foot getaway from

Seattle waterfront to Winslow

Two 1972 "jumbo class" ferries, the Spokane and Walla Walla, serve this busiest Puget Sound commuter route. Each 440-foot vessel--largest in the fleet--can carry more than 2,000 passengers and 200 vehicles. But Winslow is so easy to enjoy on foot that it's simplest to leave your car behind.

Service is most frequent (about every 40 minutes) during morning and afternoon rush hours, about once an hour between those times.

From the Winslow terminal, walk north on Olympic Drive S.E. to Winslow Way. About 1/4 mile farther north on Olympic (now State Highway 305) is Bainbridge Island Vineyards and Winery, open for tasting and tours noon to 5 Wednesdays through Sundays; it also offers a garden picnic area.