Exploring ancient Mexico

Sunset, Nov, 1985

You can see many of them at La Venta Park and Museum in Villahermosa, where 30 sculptures are displayed outdoors in a lush garden. Villahermosa is also a convenient gateway to the spectacular Maya site of Palenque. Nonstop flights go from Mexico City, Merida, and Oaxaca to Villahermosa, where you can rent a car for the 2-hour drive to Palenque.

El Tajin, near Papantla, is off the beaten tourist track but worth the trip. Here, in the steamy coastal foothills, you can empathize with the sweat it took to build the many multiniched structures. Study the exquisite carved panels on the south ball court walls; a detail is shown in a map drawing on page 100.

One strategy is to fly from Mexico City to Veracruz, rent a car there, stop by the Totonac-Aztec ruins at Zempoala en route, then spend the night in Papantla or the rustic resort town of Tecolutla on the Gulf of Mexico.

Going on site

The government's National Institute of Anthropology and History (INAH) charges a modest admission--less than a quarter--to archeological zones. Major sites are fenced and guarded; more remote ones have a resident caretaker. They're open daily, usually 9 to 5 or sunset. If you can, visit early in the morning of late afternoon--best times for photography.

Wear comfortable shoes and a hat, and carry water (bring a canteen). At major sites, you can hire a licensed, English-speaking guide for a small fee. Stay on main trails, and watch where you step and sit; we barely avoided fire ants at Teotihuacan. Do not leave any valuables unattended. And remember: all artifacts are national treasures protected by law.

For a more enriching trip, be prepared with good guidebooks. English-language versions of INAH guides are available at many major sites and at the National Museum. Here's a brief list of titles we've found useful:

The Art and Architecture of Ancient America, by George Kubler (Penguin Books, New York, 1984; $20). Comprehensive, profusely illustrated overview.

The Complete Visitor's Guide to Mesoamerican Ruins, by Joyce Kelly (University of Oklahoma Press, Norman, 1982; $39.50). A good reference, this 527-page book describes and illustrates all of Mexico's major ruins and dozens of lesser ones. Ruins in Belize, Guatemala, Honduras, and El Salvador are also included.

A Guide to Ancient Mexican Ruins, by C. Bruce Hunter (University of Oklahoma Press, Norman, 1984; $9.95). Major non-Maya ruins are described and illustrated. (Also see the author's A Guide to Ancient Maya Ruins; same publisher, 1984; $9.95.)

Specialized guided tours

Aficionados might want to join a guided group tour led by experts in Mexican archeology or anthropology. These tours allow you to see a number of ruins in a short time. Occasionally, trips are sponsored by Western universities (check with extension divisions) and major museums. These operators have scheduled trips; write or call for brochures:

Discovery Tours, American Museum of Natural History, Central Park W. at 79th St., New York 10024; (212) 873-1440. Archeology Tour to Mexico, January 6 to 30, 1986, visits 13 of the 15 sites listed on pages 100 and 101 (exceptions are Coba and Tulum), plus others. Cost of $2,480 per person (subject to change) includes transport in Mexico, lodging, all meals.