Winning game plans for a really big party

Look for refrigeration alternatives. Use big tubs (or a bathtub) or garbage bags filled with ice to keep beverages cold. People in cold climates might store some foods outdoors or in a cool basement. Make use of insulated picnic chests and bags. Have several individuals chill foods in their own kitchens, then bring them to the party shortly before serving.

Who cooks, how many?

When you feed a lot of people, you need a team of cooks. At each of the parties we witnessed, cooking was a highly organized, cooperative effort with tasks clearly delegated.

At the big Thanksgiving, each family brings a cooked turkey and favorite accompaniments. Foods that freeze well, like breads and stuffings, are made in advance by several families. Just before serving time, mashed potatoes and other perishable dishes are made in the host's kitchen.

For the appetizer party, foods that can be made ahead are prepared at different homes by volunteers. Each session starts with a demonstration or lesson on the dish, then the group makes large quantities to freeze. On the party day, a core group works at the on-site kitchen, preparing foods that need last-minute attention. A professional caterer oversees the garnishing and presentation of all the dishes.

For the wine society event, dishes that need to be made ahead, such as goose rillettes, are prepared in private homes. The rest of the meal is cooked in the rented dinner-site kitchen by 50 volunteers in two days. A core group works both days to provide continuity; other people come in for 8-hour shifts. A team of five does all the cooking; the others do preparation work--cutting vegetables, washing greens--and set up tables.

The day of the dinner, the cooking team precooks vegetables, prepares the meat, makes some sauces; this food is held at room temperature, then heated to serve.

Because people arrive for the Salvation Army fund-raising lunch in a community center at slightly different times, four experienced cooks can keep up with the flow of guests. Each cook oversees three portable burners, preparing 3 omelets at a time, 60 omelets in 30 minutes.

Eggs are beaten in advance, with one person keeping the cooks supplied with the eggs and melted butter. Two others help direct and seat guests, and also spell the cooks. Omelet fillings, salad components, and desserts are prepared by volunteers and stored in their homes. These foods are brought to the center several hours ahead, put on serving plates, and set on buffet tables when guests are ready for the course.

Organizing help

With a big group of volunteers, organization and communication are key words. Duties should be written out and delegated to individuals or team leaders. The omelet group prepares duty cards for each volunteer, specifying what to do, when, and where. The wine society has a chairman for its dinner and a committee with clearly defined duties for each job. Names and duties are posted conspicuously.

An appreciated group performs best--so be sure to reward the helpers. In Seattle, wine society volunteers sit down to a lunch served to them by another volunteer whose main responsibility is to prepare this meal. The clean-up crew is allowed to enjoy the gala dinner, then goes to work after it's over. The resident janitor gets a generous tip for his help in getting the rented facility back into good shape.