Buffalo for your holiday roast? Or antelope, caribou, boar

Sunset, Dec, 1985

If you want a very special entree for a holiday meal, ranch-raised game is one choice. Roasts of buffalo, antelope, caribou, and boar (called wild, to distinguish it from pork) are not inexpensive and not easily acquired, but they can be found if you plan ahead. The flavor and texture of these meats are milder and much more tender than you might expect, and can be appreciated regardless of your stand on wild game.

During the holidays, these roasts (sometimes fresh, usually frozen) are more available than at other times of the year. Still, it's wise to start your search several weeks in advance. Your own meat market may be able to order what you want. Or check with retail and wholesale suppliers, listed under Meats in the yellow pages; some suppliers ship. For sources, you can also send a stamped, self-addressed envelope to Game Editor, Sunset Magazine, 80 Willow RD., Menlo Park, Calif 94025.

The price will be at a premium and is unpredictable; inquire ahead to avoid unpleasant surprises. You can expect to spend roughly $50 to $70 for a roast that will serve 8 to 10; however, a prime beef roast may not cost much less.

Buffalo comes from ranches in California, Colorado, Idaho, Kansas, Montana, and Wyoming. Although the meat is leaner then beef, it looks about the same.

Most boar is farm-grown in Texas. It tastes like port but has a bolder flavor.

Antelope and caribou (reindeer is sold interchangeably with caribou) generally come from Alaska, Canada, and Sweden. The slightly sweet, lean meat is darker than beef.

Buffalo, antelope, and caribou should be cooked to very rare or rare; cooked more, the meat gets dry and very firm. They are all roasted at only 300[deg.].

For best results with these meats, use a meat thermometer.

Our simple presentations make the most of the special flavor of these roast. Buffalo is crusted with aromatic seeds, antelope has a mild honey-pepper glaze, caribou is served with an apple-juniper berry sauce, and pork gets a tangy citrus-pepper sauce.

Seed-crusted Buffalo Rib Roast 1 b uffalo center-cut rib roast (7 to 9 lb.) 2 teaspoons each anise seed, coriander seed, fennel seed, and mustard seed 1 teaspoon celery seed 1-1/2 cups dry red wine 1 cup regular-strength beef broth

Rinse roast with cool water and pat dry. Neatly trim any excess fat from roast. Then remove the heavy silver-colored membrane (if present) that covers the meat: slip a thin sharp knife under the membrane at one end of roast to free a portion, then use this flap to hold membrane taut as you slide knife under it (see lower left photograph).

If desired, also cut cartilage from between rib bones down to meat, giving roast the decorative look you see in photograph above left (trimmings have a little coarse-textured meat you can use for stock).

To keep roast compact as it cooks, tie it snugly with cotton string between each rib. Set roast, meat side up, on a rack in a 10- by 15-inch pan.

With a mortar and pestle or in a blender, coarsely crush anise seed, coriander seed, fennel seed, Mustard seed, and celery seed. Pat onto roast.

Bake in a 450 [deg.] oven for 15 minutes. Reduce temperature to 300 [deg.] and continue to cook until a thermometer inserted in center of the thickest part of meat registers 130 [deg.] for rare (do not overcook)--about 16 minutes a pound (untrimmed weight), or about 2 hours for a 7-1/2-pound roast.

Transfer roast to a platter and let rest in a warm place for 15 minutes, then snip strings free and remove them.

Meanwhile, skim any fat from drippings. Add wine and beef broth to pan and bring to a boil, scraping brown bits free. boil on high heat, uncovered, until reduced to 1-1/4 cups; stir often. Pour into a small bowl.

To serve, cut parallel to side of each rib; there is a portion-size slice of meat between ribs. Or slice roast free by cutting next to all the bones at once, then cutting across the grain to make thick or thin pieces.

Accompany with pan juices. Allow 1/2 to 3/4 pound buffalo (raw weight) for a serving.

Wild Boar with Orange and Green Peppercorn Sauce 1 wild boar whole back leg (8-1/2 to 11 lb.) 1 tablespoon grated orange peel 1-1/2 cups orange juice 1/2 cup lemon juice 2 tablespoons drained canned green peppercorns 1 cup regular-strength beef broth 1/4 cup chopped shallots 1/2 cup whipping cream

Trim off excess fat and any coarse membranes from surface of leg. Lay leg on a rack in a 12- by 18-inch pan (cup foil under the tip of the leg bone if it extends beyond the pan).

In a 1- to 1-1/2-quart pan, combine orange peel, orange juice, lemon juice, and green peppercorns. Boil, uncovered, until the mixture is reduced to 1 cup; baste leg with the sauce.

Bake leg in a 325 [deg.] oven, basting with sauce every 40 to 50 minutes, until a thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat registers 160 [deg.] (because of the irregular shae of the leg, you may need to insert thermometer in several places to be sure all parts have reached 160 [deg.]). Allow about 20 minutes a pound, or about 3 hours for a 9-pound roast.