Denmark's "cold table" is sociable and expandable - recipes

Sunset, August, 1986

Denmark's "cold table" is sociable and expandable Much more festive and welcoming than its name implies, Denmark's "cold table" is an expansive array of temptingly presented foods. It's full of variety: salads, fish, hearty entrees, roast meats, cheeses, fruit, breads. But it's casual. Most of the dishes are cold, and they wait easily until guests get around to them. Socializing at the party comes first.

This streamlined version features cold dishes solely, adapting well to warm-weather entertaining in the West. In Denmark, you take a new plate for each course, helping yourself to many small samplings. At home, you'll probably find one plate adequate--or perhaps want a second one for the cheeses and fruit.

All of these dishes are quick to assemble, and many components can be purchased ready-to-eat. The recipes break down into convenient make-ahead steps. Depending on the dishes you select, start preparations as early as four days ahead or as late as the day of the party.

The menu can grow or shrink as you choose. For a party of 12, prepare one or two dishes from each category. Each recipe or purchase suggestion provides about 12 sampler-size servings. Per person, allow at least 1/4 pound of fish, meat, or eggs; 1/2 cup of trimmed vegetables; 2 ounces of cheese; and 2 ounces of bread.

For a grand buffet for 30 to 40, offer all of these dishes and the suggested amounts for ready-to-eat foods. With the greater variety of dishes, assume guests will take smaller portions of each dish. You may want to multiply the recipes for eggs with caviar and avocado with shrimp.

Danish cold table

Recipes for dishes marked with an asterisk start on page 134. Most remaining menu items can be purchased and simply presented.

SEAFOOD Gravlax* or Smoked Salmon Lumpfish or Red Salmon Caviar Small Cooked Shelled Shrimp Lemon Wedges Sour Cream Lemon-Caper Pickled Herring* Herring in Mustard-Dill Sauce* Herring in Curry Cream* Hard-cooked Eggs with Caviar*

Have lemon and sour cream to go with salmon, caviar, or shrimp. Plan to start the gravlax at least a day ahead; if you're pressed for time, buy smoked salmon (2 to 3 lb.) instead. Purchase caviar (8 to 12 oz.; rinse in a fine strainer under cold water, drain, and chill) and cooked shrimp (1-1/2 to 2 lb.). The herring and egg recipes use some prepared ingredients that make them quick to assemble.

SALADS Asparagus with Eggs and Radish* Marinated Cucumbers* Tomatoes and Onions with Capers* Avocado Wedges with Shrimp*

Parts of all the salads can be made ahead. The asparagus, cucumber, and tomato salads can be assembled hours before the party. But peel and pit avocados shortly before serving.

MEATS Cold Cooked Ham Beef Tartare with Beets*

Bake a 6- to 8-pound bone-in ham (shank or butt portion) a day or two ahead, or use a cooked boneless ham. Offer ham whole to slice at the table. For a small group, you might buy sliced cooked ham from the delicatessen.

Prepare the beef tartare shortly before serving, and keep it cold.

CHEESES, FRUIT, BREADS Danish Blue Havarti Brie Camembert Samsoe Grapes Apples Big Rye Cracker Bread Rounds Thinly Sliced Pumpernickel Small Rolls Butter

Present one or several kinds of cheese in big chunks to slice at the buffet. For best flavor, allow the cheese to warm to room temperature. Arrange fruit and breads alongside.

Traditionally, Danes offer beer and icy aquavit with these foods. You might wish to add a wine such as dry Sauvignon Blanc or White Zinfandel along with sparkling water to the beverage choices. Put the drinks in ice to chill at least an hour before serving, or set them in the refrigerator the night before. Chill aquavit in the freezer to get it icy cold. Tie a towel around the frozen bottle to pour.