Castles, lakes, and Ireland's first national park - Killarney National Park

Sunset, Sept, 1986

Castles, lakes, and Ireland's first national park

Purplish mountains, deep forests for hiking and riding, and historic castles and mansions bless southwestern Ireland's Killarney Lakes district. Little wonder it's long been a haunt for British tourists, though it's less familiar to Americans.

The town of Killarney, 54 miles west of Cork and 190 miles southwest of Dublin, is the gateway to the Ring of Kerry, a famous scenic drive. So if you're headed for the "Ring,' you might allow extra time fo the Killarney Lakes. Ireland's first national park is here, as are the stately Muckross House and Gardens.

The bustling market town of Killarney (area population 7,800) is a good place to get your bearings; you'll find an information office and plenty of shops and restaurants in case the weather's "soft' (the Irish term for rain). The office, in the town hall on Main Street near E. Avenue Road, is open daily from 10 to 5. You'll discover maps, brochures, and helpful staffers who can also assist with lodging: the area has 23 hotels ($27 to $69) and 16 bed-and-breakfast inns ($11 to $24).

The many small shops clustered along Main and High streets near New Street offer a good selection of crystal, tweeds, and knitwear, but prices aren't low. We fared better on side streets--Plunkett and College. Most shops ship to the U.S.

Killarney touring

Spread over 25,000 acres with three big lakes, Killarney National Park has well-defined access areas, and much of the park can be explored on easy day-hikes. Two outings in particular capture the park's variety--Muckross House, with its famed garden and nature trails; and Torc Mountain and waterfall. The Gap of Dunloe, just outside the park boundaries, is also worth a visit. It's a good idea to have foul-weather alternatives for your day's outing.

Muckross House and Gardens. This imposing 1843 mock-Elizabethan sandstone mansion, about 3 1/2 miles south of Killarney on the Kenmare Road (N71), forms the heart of the national park. Originally called Bourn Vincent Memorial Park, the estate and its 11,000 acres were set aside in 1932. If you take the hiking and horse path into the grounds, you'll pass the ruins of 15th-century Muckross Abbey. For touring, jaunting cars (see page 58) and bicycles are available for hire at the Muckross town square.

The 25-bedroom house is a visitor center and museum of Kerry County folk life. Upstairs, sumptuous rooms reveal how the last wealthy owners lived; downstairs, weavers, basketmakers, potters, and other craftsmen work at their trades. You can spend hours roaming the huge house and its crafts shop; there's also a tea shop downstairs. The house is open 10 to 7 daily Easter through October, then closed Mondays. Admission is about $1.

In the spectacular garden, paths wind round mammoth rhododendrons, which flourish in the wet, warm climate and the acid soil.

One of the best nature trails--an easy 1 1/4-mile walk--begins near the house at the edge of Muckross Lake. Much of it meanders under large, sheltering oaks, so it's pleasant even in a light rain. Fairly level, it skirts two bays of the lake, then climbs over limestone cliffs studded with wind-sculpted yew trees. Across the lake you'll see the forbidding, purplish mountains of Macgillycuddy's Reeks. The trail loops back through an oak wood carpeted with bracken and thick moss.

Torc Mountain. For a good half-day outing, continue 4 miles south of Muckross House on the Kenmare Road to the turn-off for the Torc Waterfall. You can park here and take a short but steep hike up to the base of this 60-foot cascade. Or climb Torc Mountain for another 1/2 mile or so to a dramatic spot overlooking the main peaks of the park--Mangerton, Eagle's Nest, Purple, Tomies, and Shehy. Backtrack to return. While the trail is sheltered much of the way by dense oaks, it's a fair-weather hike--the trail gets slick and muddy after rain.

Gap of Dunloe. Just west of the park boundary, the Gap of Dunloe is a ragged gorge between Macgillycuddy's Reeks and Purple and Tomies mountains. To get to the gap from Killarney, take the Killorglin Road (R562) west about 6 miles and follow the signs.

You can see part of this wild 4-mile-long gorge in about a half-day outing, or go deeper on an all-day excursion. The trailhead begins at Kate Kearney's Cottage (an old coaching inn, now a souvenir shop and tearoom). From here, the wide, well-worn path climbs steadily along a twisting brook and into the glacier-carved limestone and red sandstone cleft. Midway, a small tea shop offers travelers a bracing cup and tasty nut or Irish soda bread (about $1.40). Return at this point for a 4-mile round trip. For an 8-mile round trip, continue climbing to the Head of the Gap. Winds are high, but the spot commands spectacular views.

Between about 11 and 4, four-passenger horse-pulled jaunting cars ($14 to $21) or a pony ($14) are for rent. The jaunting cars make the Head of the Gap trip in about 2 hours. The pony may be faster if he's in a good mood and wants to go where you point him. Note that if you choose a pony, you may be sent off without a guide and only a freshly cut blackthorn switch to ensure your mount's cooperation, so some riding experience helps; English saddle and tack are used.