Utah powder … where the locals ski; three low-key resorts east of Ogden

Sunset, Feb, 1987

Utah powder . . . where the locals ski

That dry, pillowy snow that can makeeven a tyro feel effortlessly cloud-borne, Utah powder is a powerful lure to skiers. Most of those lured head for the Wasatch Range resorts east of Salt Lake City. But the powder falls in equally generous quantities in other parts of the Wasatch.

Northeast of Salt Lake City, east of Ogden,lie three ski resorts: Powder Mountain, Nordic Valley, and Snowbasin. They're different from Utah's betterknown ski resorts, being in some ways reminders of an earlier, more relaxed era of the sport. They cater mainly to locals and to families. Lift tickets are relatively inexpensive, life lines relatively short. (Expect at the most a 10- to 20-minute wait on weekends; we found no wait at all when we visited on a weekday.) The bulk of the terrain can be classed as intermediate, but there are many gentle runs for beginners and some challenging slopes for experts. With fewer skiers around, it's possible--especially on a weekday--to finish a run, look back up the slope, and see that yours is the sole pair of tracks breaking the snow.

The season for these resorts normally lastsinto April. All three have equipment rentals, ski schools, and day lodges, but apres-ski opportunities are limited, and there are no overnight accommodations. You'll find some lodging in nearby Huntsville or Eden, with more options in Ogden.

Up Ogden Canyon to the resorts

To reach the three resorts from Salt LakeCity, take Interstate Highway 15 north 35 miles to Ogden, then State 39 east up Ogden Canyon.

The canyon drive is in itself worth thetrip. Some of the vacation houses you pass have been christened with names from Norse mythology, and for once such names don't seem merely the quixotic fancy of the over-proud cabin owner: Odin might well have found this quartzite chasm a suitable place for a throne.

Come prepared with snow tires or chains;for a recording that gives current highway conditions throughout the area, call (801) 479-5840.

Powder Mountain. This resort is reachedby taking State 162 about 5 miles north from its intersection with State 39, then following the signs. Powder Mountain has 580 acres of skiing: 26 runs serviced by two tows and three chair lifts.

New from last season is a day lodge at thetop of Hidden Lake lift. From here on a clear day, you can see west to Pilot Peak in Nevada, northeast into Idaho and Wyoming.

Intermediate runs account for 70 percentof the terrain at Powder Mountain, but experts can find some deep bowls filled with powder along with another nice perquisite: if they're daredevil enough to shoot down steep, forested back trails to the road, they can be retrieved by the resort shuttle bus for another run. Buses run every 30 to 45 minutes on weekends, less often on weekdays.

Powder Mountain is open from 9:30 to4:30 daily, with night skiing from 4:30 to 10 P.M. Mondays through Saturdays. Lift tickets go for $15 adults, $10 children. For more information, write to Powder Mountain, Box 68, Eden 84310, or call (801) 745-3771.

Nordic Valley. Managed by former nationalchampion Ray Miller, Nordic Valley is notable for its family atmosphere and its emphasis on night skiing: 99 percent of its terrain is lighted. The resort has 85 acres of skiing and two double chair lifts. Most of the runs are classed as beginning or intermediate.

To reach Nordic Valley, take State 162past the Powder Mountain turnoff 1 1/2 miles until you see signs for the resort. It's open 9 to 4 Fridays through Sundays and school holidays, for night skiing 4:30 to 10 Mondays through Saturdays.

Lift tickets cost $10 adults ($8 at night),$7 children ($7 night). For more information, write to Nordic Valley, Box 178, Eden 84310, or call (801) 745-3511.

Snowbasin. This resort lies 19 miles eastof Ogden via state highways 39 and 226.

Base elevation is 6,400 feet, top elevation8,800 feet (this vertical drop is the third greatest among Utah's 14 resorts), and the longest run is 3 miles. Five lifts service 48 runs: one double chair and four triples, including two that were just added this season.

Many of Snowbasin's runs take you intobroad, open bowls. Most of them face northeast, making mornings the optimum time to ski here.

Snowbasin is open from 9 to 4 daily.Adult rates are $18, children $13. For details, write or call Snowbasin, Box 348, Huntsville; (801) 399-1135.

Photo: Snowbasin's runs are backdroppedby 10,716-foot DeMoisey Peak

Photo: Ogden-area resorts lie in the WasatchRange northeast of Salt Lake City

Photo: Snow-flocked evergreen stands besideskier sliding by on Hidden Lake Lift, a rope tow at Powder Mountain