Oats; in cookies, oatmeal, breads, and more

Sunset, Feb, 1987

Oats

Do oats have life beyond cookies and porridge?Surprisingly, this member of the grass family has many guises beyond the familiar rolled oats, and its nut-like flavor is good in both savory and sweet preparations. Here, we explore different oat forms and present classic recipes, as well as some unexpected choices.

Are all oats created equal?

Processing makes the difference. Afterharvesting, oats are dried and toasted to enhance their flavor, then hulled. At this point, they're called groats. From here, the groats can be steel-cut or rolled.

Steel-cut oats resemble cracked wheatand, like groats, cook more slowly than rolled oats; they're also chewier--ideal for pilaf or hearty porridge.

Rolled oats come in varying thicknessesthat determine how fast they cook. The commonest--from thickest to thinnest-- are regular, quick-cooking, and instant. Quick-cooking and instant have been cut up to hasten cooking. Rolled oats are popular in porridge and also in baked goods, such as breads and cookies.

What's in name? Shopping tips

Grocery stores usually stock rolled oats.At health-food stores, you're likely to find oat groats, steel-cut oats, and thick and regular rolled oats. Trips to gourmet and British and Irish import stores should uncover additional choices--Scotch and Irish, which may be steel-cut or rolled. The oats we found ranged from 60 cents to $2.50 per pound; imports were generally the most expensive.

For a traditional start on the day, we giveyou some variations on wholesome oatmeal porridge. Scottish oatcakes are a great cracker alternative for cheese or jam. Our basic oatmeal cooky recipe offers chewy or crisp options. The oatmeal-buttermilk bread is quick to make, as is the crunchy topping for apple crisp. Steelcut oats or groats are the basis for a flavorful pilaf.

Fruit and Spice Oatmeal Porridge

This porridge and its steel-cut variation,following, have a slightly chewy texture. If you prefer creamier porridge, use the instant or creamy oatmeal porridge recipes that follow:

2 3/4 cups water

1 teaspoon ground cinnamon

1/4 teaspoon each ground nutmeg andground allspice

1/3 cup raisins

1/2 cup chopped pitted dates

1 1/3 cups regular or quick-cookingrolled oats, or oat groats

Milk or half-and-half (light cream)

In a 3- to 4-quart pan, bring water, cinnamon,nutmeg, allspice, raisins, and dates to a boil over high heat. Stir in oats. Cover and simmer until almost all the water is absorbed, about 8 minutes for regular oats, 1 to 1 1/2 minutes for quick-cooking, or 35 to 40 minutes for groats. Spoon into bowls; add milk. Makes 4 servings.

Steel-cut Oatmeal Porridge

Follow directions for fruit and spice oatmealporridge, preceding, but increase water to 3 1/4 cups and use 1 1/3 cups steel-cut oats instead of rolled oats. Cook, covered, until almost all the water is absorbed, 15 to 20 minutes; stir occasionally. Makes 4 servings.

Instant Oatmeal Porridge

Follow directions for fruit and spice oatmealporridge, preceding, but do not cook. Instead, in a large bowl, mix 4 packages (1 oz. each) regular-flavor instant rolled oats with the raisins, dates, and only 1/2 teaspoon cinnamon and 1/8 teaspoon each nutmeg and allspice. Decrease water to 2 1/2 cups; bring water to a boil, then stir thoroughly into the oat maxture. Let stand 2 minutes before serving. Makes 4 servings.

Creamy Oatmeal Porridge

Follow directions for fruit and spice oatmealporridge, preceding, but use regular or quick-cooking rolled oats. Add oats, cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, raisins, and dates to cold water. Bring to a boil, then cook, covered, stirring often, until almost all the water is absorbed, about 5 minutes for regular oats, 1 1/2 minutes for quick-cooking. Makes 4 servings.

Scottish Oatcakes

1/2 cup steel-cut oats

1 cup regular rolled oats

1/2 cup all-purpose flour

3/4 teaspoon sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon baking powder

2 tablespoons melted butter ormargarine

1/3 cup hot water

In a blender or food processor, whirl steel-cutand rolled oats until coarsely ground.

Place all but 2 tablespoons of the oats in abowl with flour, sugar, salt, and baking powder; stir until combined. Add butter; stir until evenly distributed. With a fork, mix in water until evenly moistened. Pat dough into a ball, then flatten slightly.

Sprinkle reserved oats on a board. Rolldough out 1/16 inch thick. With a 2 1/2- to 3-inch round cutter, cut dough into rounds. Reroll and cut scraps. Place oatcakes about 1 inch apart on 2 greased 12- by 15-inch baking sheets.

Bake in a 325| oven until oatcakes aregolden, about 25 minutes. Let cool on a rack. Serve, or store airtight at room temperature up to 2 days. Makes 26 to 30.

Tailor-made Chewy Oatmeal Cookies

If you prefer, you can omit spices, raisins,and nuts.

1 cup (1/2 lb.) butter or margarine

1/2 cup granulated sugar

1 1/2 cups firmly packed brown sugar

2 large eggs

1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla

1 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon each ground allspice andground cloves, optional

1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg, optional