Baked long and slow, beef brisket melts to succulence

Sunset, Feb, 1987

The easiest approach to beef brisket--long, slow baking--is also an ideal way to get tender, succulent results. Potatoes can bake right alongside to make a warming winter meal.

In these two recipes, fresh whole briskets(not corned) bake for about 4 hours. For one dish, port, lemon, and onion flavor the meat as it cooks; later, you reduce the mixture to a shiny marmalade topping. To season the second brisket, use mushrooms, onions, and red wine.

Beef Brisket with Onion-Lemon Marmalade and Sweet Potatoes

1 beef brisket (5 to 6 lb.)

2 medium-size onions, thinly sliced

2 medium-size lemons, thinly sliced

1 cup port or apple juice

1/2 cup firmly packed brown sugar

1 tablespoon dry marjoram leaves

1 teaspoon coarsely ground pepper

8 to 10 medium-size sweet potatoes(about 5 lb. total) About 8 kale leaves, rinsed and drained, optional

Trim and discard excess fat from brisket.In a 12- by 18-inch roasting pan, place onion slices and 3/4 of lemon slices; enclose remaining lemon in plastic wrap and chill. Lay brisket on top of onion and lemon.

Mix together port, brown sugar, and marjoram;stir until sugar dissolves, then pour evenly over brisket. Sprinkle brisket with pepper and cover roasting pan tightly with foil. Bake in a 300| oven until brisket is very tender when pierced, about 4 hours.

Meanwhile, about 1 1/2 hours before brisketis scheduled to be done, pierce each sweet potato with a fork and set on oven rack alongside or above brisket.

When brisket is tender, uncover pan andreturn it to the oven to brown the meat slightly, about 15 minutes. Remove brisket from pan and place on a platter; keep warm. When potatoes are soft when pressed, remove them from oven, add to brisket platter, and keep warm.

Skim off and discard fat from pan juices.Place roasting pan over high heat; boil juices, uncovered, stirring often. As mixture thickens, reduce heat to medium and stir constantly; cook until thick and shiny, and reduced to about 1 1/2 cups, 20 to 30 minutes. Spoon marmalade over brisket, then garnish with reserved chilled lemon slices and kale leaves. To serve, slice brisket across grain. Serves 8 to 10.

Beef Brisket with Mushrooms

1 beef brisket (5 to 6 lb.)

4 teaspoons olive oil or salad oil

1 large onion, thinly sliced

1 tablespoon dry rosemary

3 cloves garlic, minced or pressed

1 pound mushrooms, thinly sliced

1 teaspoon coarsely ground pepper

1 cup dry red wine or regular-strengthbeef broth

8 to 10 medium-size russet potatoes(about 5 lb. total)

2 tablespoons cornstarch mixed with1/4 cup water Italian parsley sprigs, optional

Trim and discard excess fat from brisket.Place meat in a 12- by 18-inch roasting pan; set aside.

To a 10- to 12-inch frying pan, add 2teaspoons oil, onion, rosemary, and garlic. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring often, until onion is limp and light gold, 8 to 10 minutes. Remove from pan and set aside. Add remaining 2 teaspoons oil and mushrooms; cook, stirring often, until juices evaporate and mushrooms are lightly browned, about 8 minutes. Mix mushrooms and onion; spoon over brisket.

Sprinkle brisket with pepper and pourwine over meat. Cover pan tightly with foil. Bake in a 300| oven until brisket is very tender when pierced, about 4 hours.

Meanwhile, about 1 1/2 hours before brisketis scheduled to be done, pierce each potato with a fork and set on even rack alongside or above brisket.

When brisket is tender, uncover pan andreturn to oven to brown meat slightly, about 15 minutes. Remove brisket, mushrooms, and onions from pan and place on a platter; keep warm. When potatoes are soft when pressed, remove from oven, add to brisket platter, and keep warm.

Skim off and discard fat from pan juices.Measure juices; if more than 2 cups, place roasting pan over high heat; boil juices, uncovered, stirring often until reduced to 2 cups. Stir cornstarch mixture into juices and bring to a boil. Pour 1 cup of pan juices over brisket and offer remaining sauce to spoon over each serving. Garnish platter with parsley. To serve, slice brisket across grain. Serves 8 to 10.

Photo: Cut across grain of tender brisket topped with shiny onion-lemon marmalade and lemon slices. Sauce's sweet-tart flavor complements beef and sweet potatoes