Shops, temples, stairstep streets, tranquil paths … a walk in Kyoto's Higashiyama area

Sunset, May, 1987

Shops, temples, stairstep streets, tranquil paths . . . a walk in Kyoto's Higashiyama area

A day or a week: whatever your itineraryallows in Kyoto, plan a walk in the Higashiyama area alongside the eastern hills. It's a microcosm of the city's charms: stair-streets many centuries old, folk-art and crafts shops packed with promise, a few of the country's most photogenic temples and gardens, a cluster of entertaining museums, and tranquil paths shaded by cherry trees.

The area is ideal for exploring on yourown. Our map on page 84 outlines a route that takes about an hour to walk. But don't rush: it's easy to spend a day here. The route is shown in more detail in Walking Tour Courses in Kyoto, a brochure you can get free at the Tourist Information Center (TIC) next to the Kyoto Tower Hotel, across the street from the main exit of Kyoto Station.

From the station, take the 206 bus (about$1) to the Kiyomizu-michi bus stop on Higashioji Street. Walk east, uphill, on what's often called Teapot Lane. Many of the old wooden-front shops sell Kiyomizuyaki --ceramic ware of notable simplicity made for the tea ceremony, and first introduced in the eighth century.

To Kiyomizu Temple for superb views . . . then wander narrow streets to a cherry-tree park

Teapot Lane dead-ends at postcard-famousKiyomizu Temple, an elegant dark structure with a swooping straw roof that rises above the surrounding forest. Its wide veranda rests on a trestle of huge timbers, including 139 massive posts, built in 798 without a single nail.

From this perch, take in the views ofKyoto below and--especially after a rain--the fresh spring greens of maples that contrast with the shining wood of the temple. April through May, azaleas in bloom draw crowds here. Admission is by donation; hours are 8 to 6 daily.

Backtrack downhill from Kiyomizu andfork right down a stair-street called Sannenzaka. Tiled eaves jut from traditional wooden houses whose front windows beckon the passerby with displays of pottery, clothing, food, folk art, antiques. Watch for small shops selling beautiful bamboo crafts, found in unusual variety and profusion here.

Meander the narrow streets north intoMaruyama Park, a scene of evening revelry during April cherry-blossom season. This is a good place to buy refreshments from vendors and rest on a bench.

Two more exceptional temples

After crossing the park, watch on yourright for the entrance to Chion-in Temple, seat of the Jodo sect of Buddhism for more than 800 years.

Brightly painted and trimmed with gilt,Chion-in sports a dramatic tile roof. Its two-story entryway with massive wooden gates, built in 1619, is one of the most imposing in Japan; its 74-ton bronze bell is Japan's largest. Ceremonies with chanting priests occur daily. Admission is free; hours are 9 to 4 daily.

Just north is Shoren-in Temple, modeledon the Imperial Palace. Built in 1144 as a home for retired royals, it resembles a grand villa with classical gardens. (At our press deadline, the compound, visible from the street, was closed temporarily. Ask at the TIC office.)

Three stops for art lovers

Directly across from Shoren-in is thecomplex of Yamanaka Oriental Fine Arts & Crafts, in business since 1870. Collectors flock here to see the museum-like showrooms of fine arts and antiques. The less expert can find validated quality at reasonable prices (under $100) in the print gallery and crafts showroom. Hours are 9 to 5:30 Mondays through Saturdays. Take time to stroll the paths of Yamanaka's garden, dotted with stone lanterns.

Continuing north, cross busy SanjoStreet. In a couple of blocks, cross a moat-like canal. Museums surround you here:

--To your right, next to the zoo, is KyotoMunicipal Museum of Art, with works in many media. Look for paintings by the traditional-style Kyoto School. Admission is $1.30.

--To your left, you'll find the NationalMuseum of Modern Art, housing contemporary drawings, paintings, and sculpture by Japanese and foreign artists; the ceramics collection is considered superb. Admission: $2.30.

--Next to it, in the curvy-walled KyotoMunicipal Museum of Traditional Industry, you can watch craftsmen demonstrating all manner of traditional techniques. Among the exhibits, don't miss the reconstructed "eel' house--a long, narrow abode typical among artisans for centuries. Free.

All open at 9 or 10 and close at 5, Tuesdaysthrough Sundays.

On to a 74-foot torii and spectacular gardens. Join a tea ceremony, then go shopping in a high-rise crafts center

Due north is the grandly scaled HeianShrine, built in 1895 to commemorate the 1,100th birthday of Kyoto. After a fire in 1976, it reopened in 1980, more brightly vermilion than ever. The 74-foot torii gate is Japan's tallest. The spectacular gardens here are famous for ponds crossed by steppingstones and for the bloom of azaleas in April and May, iris in June, and lotus all summer long.

Head east and cross Shirakawa and Shishigatanistreets to intersect a cherry-bordered canal and gravel path known as the Path of Philosophy (for those who've used it for contemplative constitutionals). Bamboo fences and stone walls offer peeks at some of the city's finest houses and gardens.