Big Green Egg cooks thick red meat

The Big Green Egg "will grill, smoke, or bake literally any dish you choose, and do it better than any other type of grill at any price." Hock, we don't mind a grill with a little braggadocio in its repertoire as long as it delivers delicious food under all conditions (hey, it may be late winter, but we're still out there cooking up a storm). Actually, this unique-looking beauty has all the angles covered, as it is impervious to weather, virtually indestructible, and, according to the box, "leaves other cookers green with envy." (A grill that brags and tells jokes; we may have something here.)

The "Egg" design is based on the 3,000-year-old fired-clay Kamado cooker--and then adds space-age ceramic technology for durability.

Fueled by natural lump charcoal, which it consumes sparingly, this ceramic cooker is cost-efficient as well as versatile. It will smoke a turkey or ham in about one-quarter the time of a water smoker. It gets ready to grill in less time than a gas grill, keeps meat and fowl oh-so juicy, and has the flavor of charcoal because it cooks with charcoal.

As a smoker, it provides a wide range of use from a tightly controllable 150[degrees]F to 350[degrees]F. As a grill, it sears and cooks foods at very high temperatures and, as an oven, it will bake pizza, bread, and more--and do it as well as a brick oven. The high-tech ceramic material keeps the outside surface far cooler than any gas grill, making it safer to use.

The Big Green Egg Co., Atlanta, Ga., has produced its ceramic cooker in a variety sizes, including mini ($199), small ($349), medium ($519), and large ($699). It is available at hearth and barbecue specialty retail stores. For more information, visit www.biggreenegg.com.

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