Visions of Crystal in Northern Europe - cruise on luxury liner 'Crystal Harmony' - includes related articles on air travel

USA Today (Society for the Advancement of Education), March, 1994 by Laurel F. Lehrer, Sheila Rothenberg, Robert S. Rothenberg

The cold, cloudy weather that had enveloped my Shetland excursion persisted as I disembarked Crystal Harmony's tender in the port of Leith on Scotland's southeastern coast, two miles from the capital, Edinburgh. My guide wore a tartan plaid wool scarf, draped over her warm wool coat. "Climate in Edinburgh is cold and blustery," she announced. This was an understatement. At times, the winds almost reached gale force. Despite the weather, I fell in love with Edinburgh's panoramic views, elegant Georgian architecture, lovely parks, historic buildings, and fine statuary.

Calton Hill was an excellent lookout point for observing landmarks: St. Giles' Cathedral (the main church of Scotland); many tall apartment buildings; a clock tower (now part of a hotel complex); and stretches of green parks. In the distance, the imposing outline of historic Edinburgh Castle, home of Scottish royalty, perched atop a natural volcanic formation called Castle Rock.

I followed a path around windy Calton Hill. Here, silhouetted against the bleached grey sky and resembling the Grecian Parthenon with its classical columns, was an unfinished National War Memorial. Dramatically piercing the sky was a telescope-shaped monument, commemorating the British naval hero, Lord Horatio Nelson.

Descending Calton Hill on the way to the Old Town of Edinburgh, I passed the palace of Holyroodhouse, Queen Elizabeth's official residence in Scotland. Stretching from this palace to Edinburgh Castle was the prominent roadway, Royal Mile, along which were constructed attached tenements dating from the Middle Ages. Shops now occupy the ground floors.

Along this Royal Mile was St. Giles' Cathedral, situated in Parliament Square. Although this church primarily was built between the 13th and 15th centuries, four massive columns that today support the vaulted ceiling were installed by the Normans in the early 12th century. In one aisle was a life-size bronze statue of an austere, bearded John Knox, holding a bible. Leader of the Scottish Protestant Reformation during the 16th century, Knox preached anti-catholic sermons against Mary, Queen of Scots, at St. Giles'. A stained glass window was inserted in this historic cathedral in 1985, dedicated to the memory of Scottish poet Robert Bums, who is remembered for his romantic lines, "Oh, my luve (sic] is like a red, red rose, that's newly sprung in June."

Climbing up to Edinburgh Castle, the mighty fortress dominating the city skyline, I came upon the esplanade at the castle's entrance. Tour buses park in this area where alleged witches once were burned alive. The wide esplanade is used annually for the inspiring military Festival for the Tattoo.

Two red-jacketed guards with tall black hats stood at attention at both sides of the stone bridge crossing a dry moat. A steep cobblestone road led upward toward the castle. Flags snapped in the strong winds that blew across battlements of black cannons. I quickly sought shelter in the castle's inner courtyard of stone buildings housing a treasury of historic artifacts.