Danish delights: the charms of Copenhagen

USA Today (Society for the Advancement of Education), Jan, 1995 by Sheila Rothenberg, Robert S. Rothenberg

Dating back to the 1830s, the Phoenix recently has undergone a complete renovation, emerging from the chaos of construction, much like its mythical namesake rose from the ashes, with a brand-new decor in classical Louis XVI-epoch style. Our suite was brightly sunlit even in late afternoon since true dark does not come until almost 11 p.m. that far north. Soft blues and yellows made the sitting area and king-sized bed inviting. Drawing back the bedspread provided a moment of bemusement, revealing individual down comforters. It seems that the Danish way--summer or winter--is to sleep bundled up. This might be a midst of a heat wave. A call to the front wasn't exactly what we had in mind in the midst of a heat wave. A call to the front desk soon resolved the culture clash, as we traded in the duvets for a top sheet and fan.

The bathroom provided a desirable blend of luxury and convenience, its black-and-white-tiled expanse well-appointed with twin sinks with 18-carat gold fittings, a commodious stall shower, wall-mounted hair dryer, basketful of the usual amenities, and an abundance of large, fluffy towels on a heated rack. Most welcome was the bubbling Jacuzzi in the marble tub, an ideal remedy for jet lag and aching feet.

The Phoenix maintains a fine balance between creature comforts and practicality, as we discovered when we finally got around to unpacking. Within its 18th-century decor lie such modern conveniences as a refrigerator/mini-bar, personally programmable safe, pants press, and (how 1990s can you get?) even a fax machine for those who can't separate business from pleasure.

Smorgasbord ... and more

Dining in Denmark primarily revolves around seafood, as it does in most Scandinavian countries. With a long history of fishing as the prime source of livelihood and an abundance of herring, salmon, and shrimp in nearby waters, seafood is king. Since marinating, grilling, and poaching all are options, it is possible to order the same fish three meals a day without repeating the taste sensation. In fact, one of the writers enjoyed a memorable meal in which she had salmon as an hors d'oeuvre, appetizer, and main course.

After a tiring first day in Copenhagen, we were not in the mood to do much traveling in search of dinner. Serendipitously, the Phoenix is just a couple of blocks away from Nyhavn, a bustling street straddling the canal that had been dug in the 17th century as an extension of the city's original harbor. After decades in disrepute, notorious for its barroom dives and unsavory trade, Nyhavn is in the process of gentrification. At the same time, it has become a meeting place/hangout for Copenhagen's youth. The combination has created a lively, Bohemian mixture of intimate restaurants and al fresco fast-food grazing, depending on one's inclination. While the grunge set primarily elected to sit on the curb or the pilings alongside the canal, sharing six-packs of beer and boxes of pizza, we wandered along, inspecting the menus posted in the windows of the restaurants, bistros, and cafes stretching the three blocks to the waterfront. A vivid mixture of ethnic (Thai, Indonesian, Italian, Chinese, among others) and seafood establishments predominate, making selection complicated.