Michigan's Upper Peninsula: a paradise for nature photographers

PSA Journal, Oct, 2007 by Dana Vannoy

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The state of Michigan is two peninsulas: the very large lower one between Lake Michigan and Lake Huron, and the Upper Peninsula (known as the 'UP' among Michiganders). The latter is well over 300 miles long--mostly wilderness stretching from the remote NE corner of Wisconsin to Sault Ste Marie, MI. The UP is a wild land, and most of it is designated Hiawatha National Forest, home to over 150 waterfalls, rapid rivers, and meandering streams, rugged, fresh water coastlines, and 4000 glistening lakes. One can find black bear, moose, beaver, and white-tailed deer as well as hundreds of migrating birds. Lighthouses are plentiful on the UR and the Keweenaw Peninsula, which protrudes into Lake Superior at the NW corner of the UP, is now home to deserted copper mines and the remnants of the unique culture that surrounded this 19th century industry.

The photographic opportunities are superb any season. Ice that collects everywhere and 200 inches of snow make winter a fairyland of dramatic images. In the spring, wildflowers abound, and nature's rebirth is palpable, while in summer the UP becomes a playground for hearty outdoorsmen--fishing, hunting, canoeing, kayaking, hiking, and soaking up the readily available quiet solitude. However, autumn is special. The leaves of the maple, birch, and aspen trees turn brilliant colors, and the color is enhanced on a backdrop of evergreen foliage. The paper white birch trunks add texture to images. Autumn in the UP rivals any place in the nation including New England, the Smoky Mountains, or the Rockies, and the scenic shoreline of the largest fresh water lake in the world, Lake Superior, adds great interest.

I take every opportunity to visit this inviting wilderness, especially mid-September through mid-October. Peak color varies somewhat by year and by locale, but generally it is the last week in September in the Keweenaw and the first week in October in the Munising area. My last brief trip was specifically to explore the Keweenaw Peninsula, and the images printed here are mostly from this NW corner of the UE However, I will describe some of the photogenic destinations throughout three regions of Michigan's UP: East, Central, and West.

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The Eastern UP

One will likely enter the UP from Wisconsin on route 28 from the west or route 41 from the south, or at the eastern end by crossing the Mackinaw Bridge from Michigan's Lower Peninsula. This structure is a thrilling five-mile span of suspension bridge, a photo opportunity in itself. Beyond the bridge there are three special attractions near the eastern end of the UE The ride through the locks at Sault Ste. Marie is well worth the time. These locks connect Lake Superior and the Saint Mary's River, which flows into Lake Huron, and they are busy with freighter traffic. Photographing the ships and the process from the shore is also rewarding. The drive west along Lake Superior is beautiful, and one eventually comes to the crossroads town of Paradise, and then White Fish Point. There are marshes and birds along the route, and often birds at the beautiful beach near the light station. Visitors also enjoy the shipwreck museum here. People coming to this area are usually heading for Tahquamenon Falls; these are the falls praised in Longfellow's "Song of Hiawatha." There are two--the upper and lower, and both will provide wonderful compositions. The lower falls is a series of cascades, and in autumn the color there is stunning. The 48 foot upper falls is the second largest falls east of the Mississippi, and the falls is recognizable for featuring a caramel stripe of darker water on the left side. This falls can also be draped in fabulous color.

The Central UP

Seney National Wildlife Refuge in the center of the UP has been created from the Manistique Swamp and includes marshes, pools, bogs, and woods. It is a perfect place to find wildflowers earlier in the year as well as fall color in autumn--and, of course, wildlife. There is a seven mile road open to cars, and miles of trails. Look for sand hill cranes, blue heron, bald eagles, and water fowl in early morning or at dusk. Also in the center of the UP is the Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore. The drive through the park with access to many trails, waterfalls, dunes, and Lake Superior views is a 43 mile dirt road beginning near Grand Marais. The famous lakeshore cliffs are at the west end of the park, and the best way to see them is the boat trip that leaves from Munising, MI, also where park headquarters is located. Take the boat latest in the day for your own delight and for the best "sweet light" images. Miners Castle, one of the most beautiful formations, also can be photographed from shore just east of Munising, still accessible from paved road.

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Munising is surrounded by waterfalls--two of the most picturesque and well known are the tall streams forming Munising Falls and the more rushing flow called Wagner Falls. These falls are easy to shoot without sun on them, eliminating glare and allowing for a slow shutter speed. Alger Falls, also south of town, requires the right time of day to avoid the sun. South of this little town is a large section of Hiawatha National Forest, one of the very best fall color destinations. There are many quiet small lakes (e.g. Moccasin, Petes, Kimble, and Thomton), and, with luck, mallards, hooded mergansers, wood ducks, or Canada geese can be included within images, maybe even a beaver.