Oberwallis

PSA Journal, May, 2004 by Derek M. Slatery

In Switzerland, the Valais is the third largest Canton. Twenty percent of the region is covered by glaciers, yet the climate is the driest in the whole country, with the lowest rainfall and the most sunshine. The Valais extends from St. Maurice to Gletsch/Grimsel Pass (7,104 ft.) in Oberwallis. French is spoken in Valais Romand and Swiss German in Oberwallis: the divide is cast of Sierre.

Zermatt (Oberwallis)

This car-free resort is situated in the southwest of Switzerland at an altitude of 5315 feet above sea level. This picturesque village in the Matter Valley nestles amidst an impressive landscape of mountains and glaciers and enjoys a fantastic panorama of 38 peaks at 13,000 feet or higher.

Zermatt beats all fashionable resorts in Switzerland, as it has the Matterhorn. No other natural structure is so easy recognizable in the country; indeed, in people's minds, the Matterhorn symbolizes Switzerland.

Zermatt can be reached only by rail either from Brig or Visp where most tourists leave their cars, or from Tasch which has a large open-air car park and then continue their journey by train to their destination. The resort is thus saved from heavy traffic in its narrow streets and offers exceptional relaxation.

This little village still preserves its old brown chalets and twisting lanes, electric taxis and horse-drawn carriages but in recent years, it has expanded with the influx of new chalet hotels to meet tourist demands. Time best photographic opportunities are found in the old quarters among the narrow lanes of wooden chalets and mazots (small barns perched on mushroom piles and used as granaries or storehouses for drying meat). The mushroom-style piles are wood with a stone slab upon which the barn is supported, and are designed to keep the mice out of the barn. Outside on small ledges, geraniums decorate time wooden storehouses. The midday sun is the best for photography here (if not cloudy or raining) but the use of a fill in flash for the shadow areas is sometimes helpful.

The Matterhorn, "King of the Mountains," is probably the most photographed mountain in the world and towers 14,692 feet above Zermatt, majestic and fascinating in every light (if not shrouded by clouds). One of the best ways to photograph the Matterhorn is in the dawn light from the hotel balcony, if the sky is cloudless. Place the camera on the balcony rail and use a long exposure with f8 or f11 stop and a cable release rather than a tripod.

On July 14, 1865 the peak was conquered for the first time by Edward Whymper, Peter Taugwalder and son. They were climbing in a group with Michel Croz and three Englishmen. On the return journey, one of the less experienced climbers slipped, dragging Croz and the two other men on the rope with him in his fall as the life-line snapped. Edward Whymper and his guides watched the fall of their four companions from 3,937 feet below. In subsequent years, this first great tragedy of the "Killer Alps" plays no small part in fostering the awesome atmosphere connected with the Matterhorn, which even today claims lives of many young, experienced climbers.

A rack-railway tour of the Gornergrat mountain begins in Zermatt and climbs to the summit (10,273 feet). The Gornergrat is the highest open-air railway in Europe. At the summit, one has a wonderful view of the Matterhorn and also an unforgettable first sight of Mount Rosa massif with its summit of Dufourspitze rising to 15,205 It., the highest point in Switzerland. By all means, try photographing the Matterhorn from the Gornergrat. Catch the first train to the top to catch the sunrise or get off the Gornergrat train halfway down and capture the Matterhorn using a wide angle lens so that you can include the glaciers, the surrounding forest and if possible, the Zermatt township. Take ISO 400 film in case of poor weather conditions, but typically ISO 200 works well for color prints and ISO 100 for slides.

Sports enthusiasts of all ages must include Zermatt in their travel plans, but a word of caution: If one suffers from altitude sickness or health problems, he should obtain medical advice before departure from home. The Zermatt region has a lot to offer from mountain walking and climbing, to summer and winter skiing, as the snow is always present. As for photographers, the view from Zermatt is spectacular and one should be on the lookout for the local wildlife--especially the Marmot sunning itself on the bank during the summer months when the snow disappears at lower levels. Ibex are tame on Gornergrat near the summit. Other wildlife are not often seen there.

Remember, the top of the Matterhorn clouds over by midday; therefore, early risers will get the best photographs. Take the Gornergrat rack-train or just walk out of town along the river towards the direction of the Matterhorn and climb the mountain trails.

Visperterminen (Oberwallis)

The Visperterminen vineyards are the highest in Europe laid out in terraces up to an altitude of 3,773 feet and produce the famous "Heida" grape. The grape is a small white berry, which is very sweet but also scarce as the output varies from year to year. Originally, the Heida was made into wine only for family consumption, but in 1977, the vine growers of Visperterminen who in the past carried on their activity in a small way on small plots of land, decided to establish a cooperative cellar in Unterstalden called Sankt-Jodern-Kellorei. Today, there are over 400 members who supply a total of more than 881,840 lbs. of grapes.