Tribal identity through body art: extraordinary people living in the remnants of time

PSA Journal, July, 2006 by Debbie Jefkin-Elnekave

If you've got it, flaunt it

Wealth is measured differently from one tribe to another, but one thing is consistent: if they've got it, they flaunt it.

Cowry shells are a measure of wealth in the Dani tribe, although these highlanders have no notion of the sea! The tribe's chiefs and most affluent members wear a breastplate made of the shells to display this wealth. The value of a shell is determined by its size, shape, color, ribbing and luster. Top grade shells are given names, and accompanied by a detailed history of every transaction in which they were involved. The shells take years to travel from the coastal region to the highlands, passing through many hands en route, and over time, this history increases their value.

PaDaung women of Thailand are known for the practice of "stretching" their necks. Girls are first fitted with the rings at the age of 5 or 6, on a day prescribed by the horoscopic findings of the village shaman. A new ring is added to the stack each year until marriage. There are several theories about the origin of this practice. Some say that it rendered the women incapable of farming or heavy labor, thereby protecting them against kidnapping by invading tribes and slave traders. Others believe it prevented tiger bites. Yet another theory is that it is purely an expression of feminine beauty. What we do know is that the number and value of the rings confers status on the wearer's family.

Clay lip plates are a distinguishing feature of the Mursi women of Ethiopia. Anthropological studies about the origin of the custom are inconclusive, but the size of the plate is representative of the wearer's family's wealth, and indicative of her bride price. Girls with particularly large plates fetch bride prices of more than fifty head of cattle.

Fashionable naked people always accessorize

To this day, there are stone-age tribes that go about stark naked, but resplendent in lavish personal adornments.

Dani men are immediately distinguished by their attire ... or lack of it. They wear only a privacy gourd, or horim, and every man has several in his wardrobe. They are very individualistic about their gourds, "training" them to grow on the vine according to the shape they wish to wear. Some are thin and straight, while some are curled at the end. Others look like rocket launchers, but actually serve a practical purpose similar to a pocket: to carry cigarettes and sweet potatoes. Another practical use for the horim is self expression. A man will noisily flick the gourd with his fingernail to punctuate his words or to indicate amazement. In spite of the ad hoc uses for the gourd, the primary function is modesty. In addition to the gourds, Dani men use white lime, flowers, fur, shells, feathers and curved bone nosepieces to make superb accessories.

Known as "the naked people," the Bonda women of Orissa artfully cover themselves with hundreds of strands of yellow, orange and white beads, which cascade elegantly like a brilliant bib. The crowning accessories include a beaded skullcap over a shaven head, silver neck and ear rings, and a brass nose ring. (See cover story, January 2006 PSA Journal.)