The enchanting Amazon

PSA Journal, August, 2005 by Robert Nguyen

Ah, the Amazon! From the air, one can see the numerous muddy tributaries meandering through the immense green of the Amazonian rain forest. The confluence of the big rivers of the region, the Ucayali and Maranon, starts the great journey of the Amazon for more than 3500 miles to the ocean. It was here that I would spend a week on a riverboat exploring the wildlife. My imagination was full of exotic birds waiting for my camera, and the trip had been in the making for six months. Finally I made it. This would be my first digital shoot in a faraway land. I was well prepared with the latest Canon 1DMKII, the long lenses, and all the storage I needed.

My wife and I were welcomed at the airport and driven to our "home" for the next week on the Amazon: the Amatista. It was a riverboat that provided all the creature comforts, including air conditioning for adventurous Americans. For me, it was important that I would have the power to operate the digital gears. My first night of sailing was fitful. Full of anticipations and unable to sleep despite the tiring, long voyage from California, I climbed to the sky deck of the boat at 3:00 a.m. to orient myself in my home galaxy, the Milky Way. I thought I knew my position in the universe, but for a while I lost my bearings. The sky looked different in the Amazon. In the morning, I boasted to be the only one to enjoy the first sunrise over the Amazon.

The first day started out with an American buffet breakfast. Feeling refreshed even after just a few hours of sleep, I was ready for any photo "opps," but we were still too close to civilization to see much wildlife. Riberenos, the local people living on the banks of the Amazon, were as curious about us as we were about them. They were as excited to see us as we were eager to see their "simple" life on the water. The ingenious dugout canoes, made of one big tree trunk, were ubiquitous. In addition, the simple but energy-efficient rafts were great for transportation of goods and people. They took advantage of the fiver current to go about. The children were playing on the river without concern about the fearsome piranhas. The wild was yet to come.

The next day started out routine enough. We covered our tender American skin with Deet and sunscreen. A tablet of Malaron was to protect us from Malaria. The boat unloaded its passengers into two motorized skiffs that took us to the small tributaries closer to the birds. It was paradise for the birdwatchers among us. The colorful birds were noisy all around. Jorge, our tour guide, was an enthusiast and knowledgeable naturalist, "Look at that Homed Screamer," "See that beautiful Chestnut Jacamar," and the "TCBB" (the cute little blue bird). When in doubt, we all said "caracara" and had a good laugh at it because this bird seemed to be everywhere. "I am going to die" shouted Jorge when he got extremely excited. His enthusiasm was contagious. Beautiful Macaws teased me, flying high overhead in big groups while making cries like little children leaving school. The flyovers were "great" but hardly ever close enough for a photographer to capture decent pictures despite a good supply of long lenses.

We stopped to have "breakfast with the dolphins." At first, we were disappointed--no dolphins. Then all of a sudden, gray and pink dolphins started to jump and play around us. It was enormously exciting for all--but again, no picture. The muddy water of the Amazon didn't allow us to follow and to anticipate the jumps of these beautiful creatures. As soon as we spotted them leaping, it was over. I was nevertheless enjoying the experience, and the excitement was universal.

After the dolphins, we went fishing for piranhas. Jorge knew exactly where to take us. It was ironic catching these fearful predators. Even though my wife needed help to bait the hook, she got overjoyed and proud after angling her first prey ever, a fire-bellied piranha that seemed to be built with just razor sharp teeth. We each had pictures taken holding our piranhas to prove to friends at home and to remind ourselves that we did catch the famed fish. We even ate them for dinner.

Sailing home after the catch was relaxing. We all were busy telling one another the same--yet, still exciting--story of catching piranha. All of a sudden, Jorge shouted, "Look" and brought the boat to a sudden stop. He spotted a huge black-collared hawk perched by the riverbank. The predator was intensely eyeing a spot on the river. We all held our breath. Adrenaline rushing, I had a fraction of a second to get my camera ready. Sure enough, the majestic big bird didn't disappoint us. Abruptly and with lightning speed, rushing the air, he pounced on his prey in the water. Gripping his prize, a piranha, with his viselike talons, he rocketed off right in front of us. Awestruck by the speed, might, and precision of the giant, we were all silent for quite some time. The entire dive and snatch of the prey took less than 2 seconds. I recorded it with my "machine gun" MKII. It was programmed on high burst mode, 8.5 frames per second. The AF was "servo," so I could track the action of the bird. Right after the "show," the photographer in me told me I got something. I couldn't wait to download the action to my laptop, not quite realizing what I got. It was more spectacular than I had ever hoped for. I kept staring at the pictures. They showed frame by frame the predator's hunting progression: the taking off, diving on the prey, extending the talons, thrusting them into water to seize the prey; he emerged from the water, striking the mighty wings downward and dashing away while splashing a water display like fireworks. This camera, the fastest, with 8.5 frames per second, should be enough for any action, or so I thought when buying it. Yet, after this wondrous event, I kept wondering what the bird looked like "between" the frames. I "needed" an even faster camera. What about 16 frames per second? For months, I was dreaming of "action." This hunting scene? More than in my dream! Well, now I actually had it recorded digitally!