Print display rack - photography equipment construction ideas

PSA Journal, Nov, 1993 by Dick Schneider

Recently I was asked to make ten new print display racks to be used at Fotoclave, November 5-7, 1993, at Concord, California. I have tried to design a new type rack which will take any size print, will not drop the prints if the rack is bumped, and will be fairly easy to assemble and disassemble.

The display rack shown here has two eight-foot easels on both sides for a total display area of 32 linear feet.

Material Required:

(Note: 1/4-20 means 1/4" diameter and 20 threads per inch)

1 full sheet of 1/4" plywood (4' x 8')

1 ten' length of 1/2" thin-wall conduit (EMT)

8 ea. 3/4" schedule 40 PVC "T" fittings--slip-slip-slip (no threads)

17 ea. 1/4-20 by 2" carriage bolts

16 ea. 1/4" flat washers

24 ea. 1/4-20 nuts

1 ea. 1/4-20 Aero Nut (self-locking)

3/4" schedule 40 PVC pipe to make the following:

4 lengths--71" long (the legs)

2 lengths--30" long (used in the spreader bars)

2 lengths--2" long (used in the crosshead)

1 length--59-1/2" long (used in the crosshead)

10 ca. 3/4" self-tapping screws

1/2" nails (brads) and wood glue

Note: PVC pipe comes in 20' lengths. Most stores sell it in 10' lengths for convenience. I suggest you buy two 20' lengths and have the store cut it into six 6' lengths and two 2' lengths. You can cut it to size when you get it home. (Don't try to find pipe that is straight; it just doesn't come that way and the bends will not show in the finished stand.) PVC pipe can be cut with any saw. A plywood blade in a power saw, or a hack saw, will work very well. You can buy a hand cutter made for cutting PVC at most hardware stores.

Construction of the Rack

1. To Make the Easels:

Cut the plywood into four 12" by 8' pieces. Cut a 1-1/2" by 8' strip and 3/8" by 8' strip off each 12" by 8' piece. After cutting the two strips from the 12" by 8' pieces what remains of them will become the backboards of the easels. The 1-1/2" pieces will be lips which will retain the bottom edge of the prints against the backboards and the 3/8" pieces will be the spacers between the backboards and the lips.

Nail and glue the 3/8" strips to the front edge of the bottom of the backboards and then nail and glue the 1-1/2" strips to the 3/8" strips, thus forming the slots or lips which will hold the bottom edge of the prints. (See the end view of the completed easels in photograph.)

From the right-hand side of the backboards measure back 14-1/2" and draw a vertical line, then measure back from the left-hand side 17-1/2" and draw another vertical line. Measure up from the bottom of the backboards on each line, 2" and 8" and drill 1/4" holes. Insert a 2" carriage bolt in each hole with the head of the bolt on the front of the easel and tighten with a washer and nut until the head of the bolt is flush with the plywood. These bolts will not be removed when the rack is taken apart for storage. This completes the construction of the easels.

2. To Make the Legs of the Stand:

Drill four 3/8" holes in the 71" pipes, measuring 8, 14, 25 and 31 inches from what will be the top end of the legs. Try to drill the holes as accurately as possible through the center of the pipe, keeping the holes lined up vertically. The bolts in the easels will go through these holes. In one leg drill another 1/4" hole 68-1/2" from the top end of the pipe. This hole is for attaching the bottom end of the sway bar.

3. To Make the Spreader Bars:

Press a "T" fitting on each end of the 30" pipes. Line up the fittings so they are parallel and pin them in place with a screw. (See spreader bars at the bottom ends of the legs in end view photo .) Note: Any self-tapping screw will work. I used 3/4" sheetrock screws and a 7/64" drill. (1/8" drill will work.) The screws do not have to go through both sides of the fitting.

4. To Make the Crosshead:

Press a "T" fitting on both ends of the 59-1/2" pipe, then a 2" pipe into the ends of the "T"s and then the remaining two "T"s onto the 2" pipes. These parts form the completed crosshead and will be pinned together after the rack is assembled the first time. Do not pin them at this time.

5. To Make the Sway Bar:

The stand will require one sway bar to correct for lateral sway. Cut the 1/2" EMT pipe to 89"; flatten one end of the pipe back about two inches. Drill a 1/4" hole in the unflattened end, and a 3/8" hole in the flattened end, each hole about one inch from the end. Bolt the round end of the sway bar to leg which has the extra hole drilled at the bottom end, using a 2" bolt, washer, and the self-locking nut. Tighten so that the pieces fit snugly but can be folded together for storage.

6. Assembling the Rack:

Lay an easel face down on the floor. Attach a leg to both ends of the easel using the top two holes in the legs. Secure with nuts on the top bolts only (finger tight only). This is one side of the rack. Repeat for the other side. One side will have the leg with the sway bar. Attach the sway bar to the top easel bolt on the other leg. Secure with nuts (finger tight only). Stand up both sides of the stand and press the top of the legs into the fittings in the crosshead as shown.