Papua New Guinea - a photo traveler's treasure; includes analysis of cultural traditions and social customs

PSA Journal, August, 1994 by Joyce Kilmer

Unusual faces and places intrigue traveling photographers. When one finds a unique culture that has contrasts, color and cooperative subjects the experience is worth sharing with others. But, if you are interested in this adventure you had better hurry. Papua New Guinea is in the midst of a quantum leap from the stone age to the plastic age.

In this country where over 700 different languages are spoken, it was not surprising to find "pidgin" commonly used for communication. It is a cohesive force and the language of their national parliament. To talk pidgin requires just 1300 words to cover the same territory as 6000 English words. They often take the form of descriptive phrases slurred together that offer an interesting challenge to decipher. English is taught in the schools and many of the nationals (the name preferred to natives) are delighted to have an opportunity to practice speaking it with visitors.

Diversity is part of Papua New Guinea's charm. Service persons stationed along the coastal regions during WW II, often speak of the Pacific-Island-like climate. Venturing into the northern flat, hot, jungle region where life is organized around great rivers creates a very different impression. A third environment is the Highlands that were thought to be uninhabitable until the 1930's. Air exploration revealed some 750,000 people living in the central cordillera ranging above the malaria line and below the frost line.

My two weeks in this country included time on and near the coastal region, a five day cruise exploring villages along the great Sepik River, and a flight to enjoy a few days in Mt. Hagen, the Highlands largest city. All accommodations were very comfortable and an abundance of fresh tropical fruit made dining a delight. Flights to Papua New Guinea originate in and return to Australia.

Head hunting and cannibalism have long been associated with this island country. Prior to gaining independence in 1975, it has endured occupation by the Germans, English and Australians. There is lingering evidence of those influences as well as of many missionary groups that have targeted the villagers.

Hous tamborans, or spirit houses, are still the focal point of village life along the rivers. Although taboo for females, they facilitate rich ceremonial activities to transmit clan grievances, beliefs about spirits and initiation into manhood. Sacrificial stones are planted in back of some of the houses where beheading took place. Traditionally a head hunter could not achieve acceptance into his clan until he had killed someone. Each pillar of the spirit house was placed on a human skull and surplus skulls were hung within.

Clans consist of "wontoks," literally one talk--all individuals who speak the same language. Fierce loyalties develop from this common bond of communication. All members of a clan are held responsible for the transgressions of each individual. Tribal fighting is now prohibited. However, hostilities linger and grievances are passed on through the generations. An eye for an eye is a basic payback and fighting is usually with bows and arrows. Arrows are tipped with human bone from a male ancestor so that his spirit will guide them to the enemy.

Some initiations into manhood culminate with a skin cutting ceremony. Deep cuts of swirling patterns are placed on the arms and upper body. Clay and ashes are rubbed into the wounds to assure their healing as raised keloid scars in crocodile-like patterns. In one village I visited young women displayed similar scars. There was no explanation as to why females indulged in this type of body decoration, but it may have been an early bid for gender equality.

Women do virtually all of the work in this culture. They are usually treated with scorn and mistrust and considered to be unimportant in this patriarchal society. We were told that men never live in the same hut with women and that sexual encounters are relegated to the gardens. Although women tend the gardens, they are usually not trusted to prepare food for the men. Women share their huts with children and pigs. Male offspring are removed from their care at an early age to prevent female contamination.

Negative attitudes toward females are partially attributed to the fact that wives are purchased from other clans for a handsome bride price consisting of pigs, shells and other valued items. Should a marriage go awry, the bride price must be returned. In view of this prejudice toward women, I was curious as to why I was treated with such courtesy and respect. The explanation received was, that as a visitor, I had been accepted as an "honorary male."

Animism is a common belief. In spite of vast differences, clans believe that spirits reside in inanimate objects such as masks, wigs and carved figures. Huli Wigmen dedicate a couple of years of their lives to the growing of hair and preparation of wigs so their ancestor's spirits will have a dwelling place.

Cannibalism is said to be rapidly becoming past history. However, it is difficult to totally eliminate when people believe that by consuming any amount of a revered person, admired traits will be transmitted to them. Tourists dine in comfortable lodges or aboard ship. Consuming even broth in villages would be a no-no on my behavior list.