The allure of Jaisalmer: a land full of color, charm and excitement - India

PSA Journal, August, 1996 by Martin Malgieri

India is a land of differences which veil our senses in enchantment and beauty. It is different in the vivid colors of its geography, the dress of its people, its customs and religion. India's magnetic charm captivates photographers and draws them back' again and again, to record the land and its people on film. Photography evokes memories of what we have seen and felt and helps us share our experiences with others.

The state of Rajastan lies in the western part of India. Within this state is the city of Jaisalmer, located within the Great Indian Desert. It is truly a land of magical color, particularly in the land itself and the dress of its people, so remarkably different from the land of the eastern United States and the relatively somber dress of Americans. These stark differences have attracted my intense personal enthusiasm and my photographic excitement.

The excitement begins along the desert road from Jodphur, as we drive southwest toward the city of Barmer. Small villages of mud-walled houses, similar in construction to the abodes of the American Indians found in the southwestern part of the United States, attract attention. The outer walls of the homes are painted with colorful geometric designs. Interestingly, the people really enjoy being photographed. In fact, they wonder about our intense interest in them and their environment. They take us into their spotless homes and generously participate in our photographic enthusiasm. We communicate through gestures, which not only work well but, in the process, produce many laughs. Laughter promotes almost instant friendliness and easy rapport--a "must" for successful picture-taking of these friendly, hospitable people.

Inside the villages women stand in doorways, clothed in skirts and blouses of bright colors. A woman is preparing food on an outdoor open fire. Across the courtyard a coat of paint is being added to intricate and colorful designs on the walls of a home. The designs depict flowers growing from a large clay pot and climbing up the walls and around doorways. The designs and patterns of the paintings vary from one house to another.

As a small gesture of our gratitude and appreciation for their friendliness and patience, we sometimes present the people with a small gift, such as a mirror. Such gifts are accepted with expressions of great joy and laughter and further promote our warm relationship.

Continuing on our way towards Jaisalmer, we pass a camel caravan. The hot desert air creates a shimmering image of this exotic and picturesque mode of transportation. The camels slowly and indifferently plod along the seemingly endless sands, their impassive riders gently swaying with each camel movement. The scene looks like a Hollywood movie come to life. Where is the caravan going? To trade in a far distant village?

Further along, we come across another typical scene of Indian village life, children playing in tiny pools of water, as their mothers do the family wash, beating clothes against a huge flat rock.

After several hours of driving, we reach the desert area of Barmer. This is the central point for various handicrafts, such as carpet weaving. Often, artisans work outdoors in front of their homes. The desert light, the blue skies, the men working on their looms in front of their own brightly colored homes, create scenes that will surely make unusual segments in travelogues. The amount of film used to capture such scenes is incredible.

You cannot help but notice the unusual landscape. At times the land is very barren and, at other times, it is lush green. As we ride along, we see people working in arable fields, who stop for a moment to watch us in open curiosity (as we do of them). The people of this area are rather tall, and also dress in brilliant colors such as red, orange and yellow. The men, not to be outdone by the women, dress colorfully, especially with their interesting turbans. They are particularly proud of their huge mustaches.

From Barmer we continue on our way towards Jaisalmer. This is a remote area of Rajastan. Villages are scarce. Sand dunes seem to swallow the paved roads. Slowly however, the mud-walled village of Sewaka comes to view. The desert light is fantastic and the blue sky is filled with white patterned clouds. It seems as if an artist painted the scene on canvas.

As we approach the village, children, filled with excitement, run out to us. Elders stay back a bit. As we walk towards the village and reach their homes, they slowly become more friendly and invite us into their homes. Although there isn't much furniture inside, there is an obvious neatness and orderliness. Clay pots, filled to the rim with water from far away wells, are carefully arranged on shelves. Farm tools are hung on the walls, forming interesting patterns. A tiny child looks up from a small handmade swing. The simplicity and sparseness provide a feeling of harmony, peace and contentment. Perhaps somewhere in this atmosphere there is a lesson to be learned.

Outside, on a platform, pumpkins are being dried in the sun, and the different colors of the pumpkins create unusual and interesting color patterns. The children compete with each other for our attention, each one gently moving to the forefront, posing for pictures. One couldn't ask for more willing, responsive and cooperative models. It is difficult to leave such warm, friendly people and such "different" surroundings, but we must. We convey a friendly "namaste" (good-bye) and the entire village waves its farewells.