The monastery of Haghpat

UNESCO Courier, May, 1998 by Elisabeth Baudourian

Tradition has it that two of Christ's apostles, St. Thaddeus and St. Bartholomew, introduced Christianity into Armenia at a very early date. Later, at the beginning of the fourth century, Armenia became the first country to adopt Christianity as an official religion. Against a backdrop of theological disputes, but above all motivated by political reasons, the Armenian church soon began to elect its own archbishop. Since it rejected the dogma of the two natures of Christ (human and divine), the church came into conflict with Byzantium. But this theological dispute masked a political concern: Armenia wanted to set itself apart from both Byzantium and Persia, two rival empires which often clashed on its territory. The break with Byzantium was completed in 609.

The determination to be independent also resulted in the creation of an Armenian alphabet in about 405. Written Armenian replaced liturgical Greek and became one of the church's main instruments for unifying the Armenian people. Drawing strength from their specific religious and linguistic identity, the Armenians managed to survive in a hostile environment and thwart repeated attempts by other nations to assimilate them.

Towards the middle of the seventh century, the Arabs conquered Byzantine Armenia. People converted in increasing numbers to Islam, especially among the nobility. Only two princely families on the outer reaches of Armenia remained Christian: the Bagratids in the north, and the Artstunis in the south. But in 862 the Caliph appointed Ashot Bagratuni "Prince of Princes", and made him "King of Armenia" twenty years later. Armenia regained its independence shortly thereafter.

THE RENAISSANCE OF ARMENIAN ART

Ashot, who had become Ashot I after being crowned by the Catholicos (the spiritual head of the church), ushered in a period of peace and prosperity that was to last 120 years. Armenian art enjoyed a renaissance. In about 961, the Bagratid family founded a new capital at Ani, now part of Turkey. At that time a mere fortified village, Ani was transformed into a wondrous city "with forty gates, 100 palaces and 1,000 churches", according to chroniclers of the time.

Armenian architecture blossomed with the construction of the church of the Holy Cross, on Aghtamar Island, and of Ani cathedral. Philosophy, theology and literature faculties were set up within the precincts of monasteries. The neighbouring monasteries of Haghpat and Sanabin were restored and enlarged and became cultural and educational centres by the end of the tenth century. The period's leading architect, Trdat, restored Hagia Sophia cathedral in Constantinople, built Ani cathedral and was responsible for the expansion of Haghpat monastery.

The Haghpat monastery complex overlooks the Pambak River in northern Armenia's Lori region. It was built, not on a peak, but halfway up a hillside on a site chosen to afford protection and concealment from prying eyes and also in response to a kind of monastic humility. It is built on a verdant promontory located in the middle of a mountain cirque, which is often wreathed in clouds. A peak on the opposite side of the river is over 2,500 metres high.

The monasteries of northern Armenia are not isolated, unlike their counterparts in the country's arid regions. They were built in a village environment. Haghpat, for example, is surrounded by many hamlets, and Sanahin's domes rise from the centre of a village.

THE ORIGINAL CHURCH

The little church of Surb Nshan (the Holy Cross) is Haghpat's earliest building. Begun in 966-67, it was later enlarged and embellished by the architect Trdat and his team. Like many other churches and monasteries, it was endowed by prominent feudal families. A typical example of tenth-century Armenian architecture, its central dome rests on the four imposing pillars of the lateral walls. The outside walls are dotted with triangular recesses. A fresco in the apse depicts Christ Pantocrator. Its donor, the Armenian Prince Khutulukhaga, is depicted in the south transept (a transversal nave intersecting the main nave). The sons of the church's founder, Prinees Smbat and Kurike, are shown with Queen Khosravanuche in a bas-relief on the east gable. Apart from one or two minor restorations carried out in the eleventh and twelfth centuries, the church has retained its original character.

A local noble family, the Kiurikians, made the church their spiritual centre and the monastery grew spectacularly. Two new buildings were added to it - St. Gregory's church (1005-25) and the chapel of the Virgin Mary - along with several circular defence walls with two fortified gates.

Armenia's golden age came to an end in the mid-eleventh century. Ani was taken by the Byzantines. The last Bagratid king abdicated. At the end of the century, Turkish-Mongol Seljuks completed their conquest of Armenia. In about 1130, an earthquake damaged Haghpat, which was not restored until fifty years later. But those eventful years did not in any way impair the monastery's spiritual influence.