Summer lite: great refreshing summer wines

Black Enterprise, June, 1994 by Eunice Fried

SUMMER ELICITS A special feeling from most of us weary of work and winter weather. Balmy breezes and a relaxed pace signal it's time to slow down and rake it... lite. We switch to lighter clothing, lighter schedules and lighter drinks. The wines of summer are lighter whites, roses, reds and sparkling wines that are pleasing to drink when the weather is warm and the mood is easy. Some exciting imports fit right in with the atmosphere. Austria, for example, now sends us dry, fruity whites that are low in alcohol, fresh and charming. By far the best buy is Austria's Lenz Mosers Servus, a blend of three white grapes at only $5 a bottle. Brundlmayer Gruner Veltliner Spatlese ($24) has rich fruitiness and a hint of roasted nuts in its aroma, while Brundlmayer Riesling Trocken ($19) is a dry wine with delicate floral flavors and crisp acidity.

Switzerland is exporting some new wines. Among the best are Robert Gilliard's Fendant du Valais ($11) and the same winery's Bes Murettes, Fendant de Sion ($15). Chateau d'Auvernier Neuchatel Blanc ($14) is a light, dry and crisp white wine. Look, too, for Henri Badoux's Yvorne Petit Vignoble ($18) with its snappy taste and depth of flavor. From Ticino, Switzerland's Italian-speaking region, comes Rubro, Merlot del Ticino ($23) from the Valsangiacomo family, a well-balanced, medium-light red wine with a heady herbal and floral bouquet.

Northern Italy also sends us merlots to remember. Torresella ($8) has the color of rubies, the fragrance of fresh cherries and is meant to be enjoyed young and slightly chilled. Livio Felluga Merlot has a soft, round texture and fresh fruit aroma ($17). Another delightful light red is Guerrieri Rizzardi Valpolicella ($6.75). Among Italy's white wines are Alois Lageder Pinot Bianco ($10), Pinot Grigio ($11), Mastroberardino Lacryma Christi ($15) and Greco di Tufo Vignadangelo ($18.50).

California offers a cornucopia of wines that are perfect for sipping on a sunshiny day. Its Sauvignon Blanc wines include: Flora Springs ($9), Philip Togni ($17), Quivera ($ 10.50) and Simi ($10.75). Simi Wineries also makes a charming Chenin Blanc ($8) and a delicious Rose of Caberner Sauvignon ($9.25). Joseph Phelps offers a fascinating rose, Vin du Mistral Grenache Rose ($10.25).

When nothing less than a crisp, dry sparkling wine will do, open a bottle of New York State's best, Chateau Frank Brut ($18), or a bottle of Nicolas Feuillatte ($17), better know as Nicky F, from France's Champagne region. Sip their golden bubbles on a golden day, and you will know what summer is all about.