Oakland's renaissance: Black life on the bay is enjoying a rebirth, from business to sports

Black Enterprise, June, 1996 by Ann Brown

Black life on the bay is enjoying a rebirth, from business to sports

Oakland, also known as the "city on the bay," has always been a magnet for African Americans. Freed blacks came in droves, lured like their white counterparts by the Gold Rush in 1849. By 1857, the city was home to one of the country's first private schools for black children. Over the next decade, black-owned restaurants and other businesses sprang up all around town.

That enterprising spirit is still present today. The city that spawned the Black Panthers and is the birthplace of such African American celebrities as Earl "Fatha" Hines and (M.C.) Hammer, still brims with activities and points of interest for blacks.

Art lovers, make your way over to the popular shopping/dining area of Jack London Square on the waterfront. There you'll find Samuel's Gallery (30 Jack London Sq.; 510-452-2059), featuring works by Charles Bibbs, Leroy Campbell and Synthia Saint James. You'll also come across The Ebony Museum (30 Jack London Sq., Suite 208-209; 510-763-0141), which is packed with so many African and African American artifacts, they're housed in two separate storefronts. The Oakland Museum (1000 Oak St.; 510-238-3401) features a number of black artworks along with an in-depth natural science exhibit that the kids will love. Trek through the Oakland Amtrak station (The Embarcadero, across from Jack London Sq.; 510-450-1081), where the new station honors C.L. Dellums, co-founder of the Brotherhood of Sleeping Car Porters. The African-American Museum and Library at Oakland (5606 San Pablo Ave.; 510-5975-053) collects, preserves and interprets materials documenting the Afro-American experience and culture in Northern California. Currently on exhibit is the "Bittersweet Triumph: The African American Experience in World War II," which runs through September.

For a relaxing lunch, head over to T.J.'s Gingerbread House (741 5th St.; 510-444-7373). Decorated to resemble its name, you can dine on gourmet cajun Creole cuisine in the gazebo garden or in one of the charming upstairs dining rooms decorated with dolls. For a hearty dinner, try Shenanigans (30 Jack London Square; 510-839-5853). While not black-owned, many of the area's black professionals can be found dining here. They also offer a fantastic Sunday champagne brunch buffet. Jack's at the Waterfront Plaza Hotel (Jack London Sq., 10 Washington St.; 510-444-7171) is a great choice for a power breakfast since you never know who you'll run into--including Oakland Mayor Elihu Harris. One of the best Sunday brunches in town can be had at the Claremont Resort (Ashbey and Domingo Aves., 510-843-3000), nestled at the base of a hill overlooking the bay. After eating all you can at the buffet-style brunch, head over to the resort's popular spa for the full treatment.

For a night on the town, there's much to do. Catch a play at the Oakland Ensemble (1428 Alice St.; 510-7637-774), which portrays relevant social issues with particular emphasis on black life For a happy hour combined with networking, area professionals head to Geoffrey's Inner Circle (410 14th St.; 510-839-4644). Most people are dressed for business, but as the night gets into gear the buffet is cleared away and folks take to the dance floor. For jazz and blues, the 5th Amendment (3255 Lakeshore Ave.; 510-832-3242) offers some of the best in town. One of the most popular jazz clubs and host to big name acts in Oakland is Yoshi's (6030 Claremont Ave.; 510-6529-200).

Your hotel options range from staying at one of the many properties near the airport, including the Oakland Airport Hilton (1 Hegenberger Rd.; 510-635-5000), to a number of hotels downtown, including the Oakland Marriott City Center (1001 Broadway; 510-451-4000) and the restored Victorian hotel, Washington Inn (495 10th St.; 510-452-1776).

Oakland features various Afrocentric events throughout the year, including the Black Filmmakers Hall of Fame's annual Oscar Micheaux Awards (405 14th St.; 510-4650-804) in February; the Black Expo (510-839-0690), usually held in July at the Oakland Convention Center; and the famed Black Cowboys Parade (4207 Whittle Ave.; 510-531-7583) in October. If you don't mind crowds, another popular event is the Festival at the Lake (510-286-1061), held annually in June at Lake Merritt and the campus of Laney College. This year's outdoor festival features headliners Najee and Etta James. For sports fans, the city has three of the Bay Area's four major pro sports franchises--baseball's Oakland Athletics (a.k.a. the A's), basketball's Golden State Warriors and the much heralded return of football's Oakland Raiders.

If you want to get around Oakland in style, call the black-owned Elegant Entertainment Limousine Service (510-286-8800). But BART--Bay Area Rapid Transit--is easily accessible and affordable. A one-way trip from downtown Oakland to San Francisco costs $1.75, though BART fares may soon be going up.

Time permitting, there's still much to do in the Bay Area. Take the ferry over to San Francisco, visit the nearby Napa and Sonoma wine country or take the Napa Valley Wine Train (800-427-4124), which tours the area. You might just have to make another trip!