Close to the Edge of Africa

American Visions, Dec, 1998 by Skip Kaltenheuser

How close to a lion do you wish to get? At the Edge of Africa exhibit at Busch Gardens in Tampa Bay, Fla., you can approach within inches and live to tell the tale. "Exhibit" isn't an adequate term, because the natural settings for these animals are state-of-the-art habitats, perhaps as close as you'll come to the real thing outside of Africa; closer in fact, than many trips to Africa might safely afford, and no shots are required.

A year after its summer 1997 premiere, the 15-acre attraction complements the African themes that already define Busch Gardens, such as the Congo River Rapids ride, Egyptian shopping bazaars, and Moroccan stage shows. It also provides high contrast to the roller coasters and amusement thrills that the park's skillful layout prevents from intruding on the nature experience. Busch Gardens was already famed for its presentation of more than 2,700 animals, representing 320 species, but the Edge of Africa comes closest yet to putting you in the lion's mouth.

The transition from cotton candy to contemplation of nature is smooth as you walk into an encampment with bronze statuary of animals that you will soon see and past a habitat of meerkats, which rise on back feet like sentries scanning for dangerous intruders. The remnants of a fishing village give way to an environment perfectly sliced from an African river, populated by hippopotamuses, a troop of baboons, and colorful fish.

Moving into a stone enclosure with large glass viewing panels, you see the underwater view. There is nothing as enchanting as the ballet of a mother hippo and her offspring floating and bouncing along the water or simply staying submerged and statuesque, fading to an outline and making a ghostlike disappearance into the greenish waters, later reversing the images to return.

Through another portal is a huge Nile crocodile, and seeing this river monster swim is an equally rare treat. Even if slightly terrorized, children are fascinated by the size of a crocodile's jaws as it yawns wide and views them like items in a vending machine. The hippos are separated from the crocodiles by a well-concealed glass panel, probably for the crocodiles' protection, as there are few animals as dangerous as the hippo, vegetarian or not.

More rock caves include portals to lions and to their archenemies, hyenas. A lion might well be parked next to the sparkling glass, again perhaps contemplating the tender two-legged morsels wandering so close on the other side of the glass. The hyenas are shy but active, each munching down 100 pounds of food a week, much of it animal bones, which they crunch and grind. You can also see them pluck fish from a shallow pool. It doesn't take long to realize that in the wild, people are just another order of steak tartare--fortunately, more clever than most side orders.

Other atmospherics are provided by tents and a Masai hut. Near a watering hole are massive termite mounds, a vulture habitat, and a giraffe-feeding area. There are many opportunities for children to learn about the ecology, wildlife and history of Africa, from cave paintings to pamphlets describing the reasons behind animal behavior. "Jungle guides" are also on hand to answer questions.

For an additional fee, visitors can take a half-hour safari on an open truck that moves through a 60-acre re-creation of the Serengeti Plain in Tanzania, viewing small herds of zebras, ostriches, gazelles, hippopotamuses, Cape buffaloes, rhinoceroses and birds. A half-dozen giraffes may approach the truck for apples and vegetables. An unforgettable sensation is having a 20-inch tongue snake out of a giraffe's mouth for the apple you're holding and wrap around your wrist instead! To gaze closely into the eyes of a giraffe is a rare pleasure never experienced in zoos, or in the wild, unless one is extremely tall. The Serengeti, which includes dozens of endangered bird, mammal and reptile species, can also be viewed by monorail and railway.

Additional animal attractions include one of the best chimpanzee and gorilla habitats you'll ever observe outside of the wild. Roaming animal experts might sport a boa or an iguana. To aid its conservation efforts, the park also offers a number of educational programs, including year-round classes for children and adults.

Combine Tampa's offerings with nearby St. Petersburg and Clearwater (www.stpeteclearwater.com), and your family will easily fill a week's vacation. It can be mighty hot down there, so a season other than summer will prove the most enjoyable.

Skip Kaltenheuser is a freelance writer in Washington, D.C.