Zydeco country

American Visions, Feb-March, 1995 by Dari Giles

While the universality of music eased zydeco's global travels, the local patois has protected the region's unique culture. Don't be surprised to find differences in language even within the same community. It is the result of territory governed by Spain, France twice), Britain, the United States and the Confederacy in a 200-year period. "Most people here are some descent of some Creole language somewhere," says Guillory. "You might get different definitions of the Creole language because it's many ways we speak it. From my area around Opelousas, to say 'I'm going to Church Point,' I'd say `Mon cou ir a Church Point.' People from the St. Martinville area would say `Je gone a Church Point.' We never could find out why. Some folks say it's because no one would cross the (Vermillion) Bayou."

As with other subcultures of African Americans, food is a pivotal point in black Creole culture, and one that developed within the framework of slavery. Hog crackers (pigskins), boudin and ardron (backbone stew) were Creole staples, and many old-timers still indulge. "During slavery, when the landowner killed the hog, he'd keep all the good stuff; the head and the intestines he'd give to the slaves, and the slaves made a delicate food with it," explains Guillory. "Boudin is when you boil the head, the liver and the intestines, grind it and mix it with rice; stuff it inside the hog and bake it. Now they call it Cajun food," he adds with a guffaw.

For more elegant, contemporary Creole fare, Ruby's is a local favorite. Ruby Sharlow, the owner and hostess, serves at least six entrees a day at her three restaurants. Home-style Creole cooking, homemade biscuits and chicken a la Ruby are a few of her trademarks; crawfish creations, such as crawfish fettucini, and pork are menu regulars; the various kinds of etouffee are delicately seasoned to tickle the back of your throat. The monthly menu is planned ahead, although Sharlow has been known to change it on a whim. She insists, however, that diners can count on chicken and sausage gumbo "every day--rain, sleet, shine, snow, 90-degree temperatures," and smothered rabbit every Tuesday.

Visit Southwest Louisiana and you, too, may find yourself saying, "Je gone a Ruby's" or "Mon cou ir a Slim's Y-Ki-Ki" or "Toot, toot, sweet." Stay at home and you can only read about it.