Steaming down the Mississippi evokes a kinder, gentler time

Insight on the News, April 21, 1997 by Tim Kennedy, Barbara G.B. Ferguson

Steamboat cruises on America's inland waterways immerse tourists in pure Americana. The tours are particularly popular with the `mature market,' expected to grow 27 percent by the year 2010.

Harry Brunt and his wife, Zoe, are enjoying bowls of homemade strawberry ice cream in the cool shade of the "front porch," the broad veranda that overlooks the prow of the American Queen.

"Everywhere I look, there's another antique," says Brunt, a retired psychiatrist from Beach Haven, N.J. A steam-powered calliope, located at the stern near the churning paddle wheel, plays "Swannee" as the boat glides serenely by mangroves dotted with white egrets. The steady speed seems to change only as an occasional towboat (pushing a string of 40 barges) passes from the opposite direction.

The easygoing pace of the stately Mississippi is at once restful and invigorating, conducive to a genuine vacation. Steamboats take you back to a time when this mighty waterway was the frontier of America, a river traveled by rogues and adventurers alike, men such as Mike Fink, Abraham Lincoln, John James Audubon, the Marquis de Lafayette and Mark Twain.

The unspoiled scenery, the boat's 19th-century decor, even the whimsical shipboard activities harken passengers on the American Queen back to a simpler time when entertainment was a family affair enjoyed in the fresh air, not a sedentary, solitary offering from a glowing video screen.

Operated by Delta Queen Steamboat Co., the American Queen (along with her sister boats, the Delta Queen and the Mississippi Queen) is one of the last authentic paddle-wheel steamboats still plying the rivers of America's heartland. This state-of-the-art, steel-hulled reproduction accommodates 420 passengers in 206 sumptuously appointed staterooms and offers five-star service and cuisine.

"We've been to the West Coast of the United States and the East, but we've never really seen much of this part of the country," says Bob Burbank, a retired power-company executive from Newport Beach, Calif. "This cruise seemed like a wonderful way to see it."

"Travelers often rebook passage -- more than 25 percent of each cruise is made up of repeat customers -- because these riverboats immerse them in a world that is pure Americana. Part of the paddle-wheel experience is learning about local history and customs as you visit ports of call. On the "fall foliage" cruise, passengers make daytrips to Natchez, Miss., home of some of the finest antebellum mansions; Vicksburg, Miss., site of one of the greatest battles of the Civil War; and Memphis, which lays claim not only to Elvis Presley's Graceland but also to A. Schwab's Dry Goods Store, whose motto is, "If you can't find it at Schwab's, you're better off without it."

Nights aboard the American Queen are full: original cabaret and vaudeville-style floor shows, ballroom dancing and live music -- contemporary jazz, New Orleans Dixieland, Memphis blues or St. Louis ragtime. Daytime activities range from sing-alongs and calliope concerts to lectures, movies and even kite-flying. There is no gambling on board, although travelers can visit casinos at ports of call. There is an exercise room -- after all, one must do something to work off the calories of four sumptuous meals offered daily, described by Delta Queen as "good solid, hearty American fare." Many folks prefer a brisk, scenic walk around the promenade deck.

The average age of passengers on board the Delta Queen hovers around 65, a growing demographic group. According to the US. Travel Data Center, the so-called "mature market" (people aged 55 years or older) is expected to grow nearly 12 percent during the next three years and another 27 percent by 2010. Statistically, mature travelers also take longer journeys and spend 30 percent more than do younger tourists. A preponderance of them -- 60 percent -- are on the lookout for new destinations.

"As our business matures, the people who have been taking cruises over the years are now becoming interested in taking cruise ships to destinations other than the traditionally visited ports in the Caribbean," says James Godsman, president of the New York-based Cruise Lines International Association. Godsman says the cruise industry has made substantial preparation for this emerging market, expanding its fleets. "We should see 22,000 new beds coming on line within the next five years," he says. "We also see increases in the average length of cruises by 40 percent, from six days to 10."

"We have to be mindful of a number of needs of the age group that typify our passengers," says Louis Hankins, a staffer aboard the American Queen who performs a one-man show as Mark Twain and delivers daily "Riverlorian" lectures. "We feel we have to meet three requirements: good entertainment, good eating and education."

The Delta Queen Steamboat Co. offers two- to 14-night vacation cruises on America's great inland waterways. Packages include air fare with deep discounts available for early bookings, groups and seniors. For more information, write Delta Queen Steamboat Co., 30 Robin Street Wharf, New Orleans, LA 70130 or call (800) 543-1949.