If the shoe fits, buy it

0 Comments | Insight on the News, July 6, 1998 | by Karen Goldbert Goff

Americans spend $12.8 billion On 350 million pairs of athletic Shoes a year. While celebrity Endorsers have helped fuel These sales, the industry Strives to accommodate the Serious as well as star-struck.

Sometimes it seems easier to program your VCR than it is to negotiate the "wall of shoes" at your neighborhood sporting-goods store. What used to be a simple purchase now requires a mental checklist: Do you run or power walk? On a track or trail, indoors or out? Do you have narrow heels? Shin splints? Do you favor aerobics or play basketball?

Customers often are confused by the abundance of sneaker brands competing for their purchase, admits A.J. Clatterbuck, shoe manager of Sneaker Stadium, a "megastore" in a Washington suburb. Sneaker Stadium carries about 2,500 models, testament to an industry that has grown exponentially since Michael Jordan and Nike began their sales pitch a dozen years ago.

"Shoes are very specialized these days, with good reason," says Clatterbuck. "It used to just be running, basketball or cross trainers. Now even the cross-training market is getting very specialized. There are football cross trainers, with turf tread and more cushioning. There are Speed trainers for doing sprint work. There are baseball cross trainers..."

Does an athlete, even an occasional one, need so many pairs of shoes? Yes, says Richard Cotton, an exercise physiologist with the American Council on Exercise.

"For the most part, it is a good idea to buy shoes for each sport," says Cotton. "There are a few things you could get away with, such as playing tennis in shoes made for basketball, because both have side-to-side support. But basketball shoes tend to be much heavier, so they wouldn't do you much good if you played tennis more than a couple times a year.... If you play a sport with any regularity, specialized shoes are part of the investment."

According to Cotton, however, no manufacturer's technology is better than another's. Consumers should find what brand fits their feet best and let that be the selling point. "I would not buy shoes based on who is using gel or air or whatever," says Cotton. "Those are all good things, but a person should buy what is most comfortable for him and what suits the sport he is going to play."

Mike May, spokesman for the Sporting Goods Manufacturers Association, estimates the useful life span of a sneaker to average 350 to 550 miles. Runners who clock 20 miles a week should change sneakers every 20 weeks. "Look at your old shoes," he advises. "How did you wear them out? Look for asymmetry in wear; if the outside heel and inside of the big-toe area are worn out.... Calluses over or under the bottom part of your first and fifth toes indicate a high arch, which needs more shock absorption and a narrow heel. Calluses on the bottom part of the second and third toes suggest a flatter foot, which needs a lot of support."

Too-narrow shoes deform toes over time; too-wide shoes will encourage blisters. "A shoe should be comfortable as soon as you put it on," May says. "You should not have to break it in. The last thing you should ask yourself is, `How do they look?' and then judge the design elements."

Then there is price, which is inching toward $150 for the most coveted basketball models. Experts say most people don't have to spend that much. "If you walk or jog less than 15 miles a week, you may want a basic shoe that sells for $60 or less," says May. People who run daily should have two pairs of adequate shoes and alternate them.

Manufacturers have refined their designs according to myriad sports activities. For athletes who haven't the time to sort out the daunting array of models, here's a quick guide to footwear in the late nineties:

Running: Running involves straightline motion, so running shoes are designed to have a slight heel elevation to reduce stress on the Achilles' tendon. They should have a larger toe box and provide good shock absorption.

Walking: Because the heel hits the ground first when walking, a good walking shoe will have heavy padding toward the back and adequate padding up front. Plastic support in the heel also helps keep the foot in line. Many models now have mesh for ventilation and are waterproofed.

Cross trainers: Look for a well-cushioned midsole, stiff outsole warps (the rubber material on the outside that provides stability) and mid-ankle heights for extra support. Cross trainers will suffice for occasional tennis and basketball games or an aerobics class, but those who take part in such activities daily had best invest in the sport-specific shoe.

Aerobics: The key to a good aerobics shoe is lighter materials, more flexibility and lots of cushion on the ball of the foot. "Ankle-high cuts will provide extra support for lateral moves and step class, protecting you from twisted ankles," says May. "Some have new wrapping systems which work like seat belts to keep your foot stable and secure."

Tennis: The most important feature in a tennis shoe is lateral support, so players can make the side-to-side moves without jamming toes and falling down. A good model should have durable treads, a roomy toe box and little heel elevation. The toe box also should curve upward, making it easier for players to shift their weight forward.