Beef is back: steak is no longer on the forbidden list. Check out this Men's Fitness guide to the tastiest—and healthiest—ways to enjoy the protein source that just may be the best muscle builder around

Men's Fitness, Nov, 2002 by Vince Steinman

I love a good steak. I've been a determined carnivore since the first time I saw the Flintstone-mobile get upended by a rack of juicy brontosaurus meat. Of course, this was long before the nutrition police came along and declared that one man's meat had become every man's poison. So, like the fitness-minded individual I am, I went cold turkey on beef. But most experts now agree that writing off red meat is irrational, as well as unnecessary.

"By all means, there's a place for beef in your diet; you just need to choose leaner cuts," says Barbara Howard, Ph.D., of the American Heart Association.

Beef has no peer as a protein source, and has an amino-acid profile that's second to none. (Anecdotally, many athletes and bodybuilders claim they feel strongest after eating some quality red meat.) Besides the protein, B vitamins, iron and other minerals, when trimmed of visible fat and cooked appropriately, beef boasts a fat content similar to that of skinless chicken breast. And there's one type of specially bred beef that claims to have less fat than any other meat-based protein, including chicken and turkey breast.

LEARN TO MAKE THE CUT

To be a true beef authority, you gotta be able to drop the lingo, including the names of the three different grades:

Select has the least fat.

Choice grade has more fat than select.

Prime is the fattiest.

Prime cuts are usually found in restaurants and specialty meat markets, with select and choice cuts available to consumers in most supermarkets. For the leanest cuts of meat, look for loin or round in the name, such as sirloin and eye round.

Color is essential. The deeper the red, the leaner the meat. You conspiracy theorists can put away your suspicions that the meat is being doctored for cosmetic purposes. Butchers don't have that option. According to the National Cattlemen's Beef Association, Federal Drug Administration standards require that all ingredients or additives other than the actual food source be listed on the package label, A package of steaks may appear bright red on the surface because it's been exposed to oxygen through the permeable plastic wrapping, but the interior--where oxygen is present--remains purplish.

BEFRIEND YOUR BUTCHER

When sweet ol' Alice of the Brady Bunch used to compliment Sam the butcher on the size of his tenderloin, she wasn't being naughty. She was simply sucking up to make sure she got the best cut of steak. Don't underestimate the man behind the counter. He may be covered in blood and wielding a huge knife, but he knows his business.

TIP

* Ask for cuts that have very little "marbling," patches of white in a piece of meat. Its street name? Fat.

* Get your steaks tailor-made. Ask the butcher to remove as much excess fat as possible. Doing so before cooking reduces fat content up to 50 percent. If you trim it yourself, place the steak in the freezer for 20 minutes to solidify the fat, which will then be easier to cut off.

* Don't be fooled by the label "93 percent lean." That means 7 percent of the weight is fat, not the calories. That can add up to a lot of grams of fat.

* Choose beef with a bright, cherry-red color, free of any grayish or brown blotches.

* Downsize your steaks. You should shoot for a three-ounce portion of lean meat, which is equal in size to a deck of cards. A seven-ounce steak will yield two servings.

* The meat should be firm to the touch, not soft or mushy. If you buy your steaks prepackaged, make sure they are cold and tightly wrapped and have no tears or punctures.

* Avoid packages that contain excessive juice, an indication of temperature abuse or excessive storage time, which could compromise the flavor and texture of the meat.

* Make meat the last thing you put in your shopping cart to ensure that the beef stays cold until you get home.

HOW YOU BUTCHER IT

Below are the eight most common cuts of steak, based on a three-ounce choice portion trimmed of all visible fat.

Chuck steaks have excellent flavor and a good, albeit fibrous, texture. A front-end cut, they're best when marinated or braised. (255 calories, 36g protein, 10.5g fat; 6g fat for select grade)

Rib/Rib eye comes from the choice area of the eye of the rib. These steaks are tender enough to not require marinating. (264 calories, 32g protein, 14g fat; 12g fat for select grade)

Tenderloin is flavorful and tender. Taken from the long, narrow wedge in the center of the sirloin area, it needs minimal seasoning and no marinating. Best broiled or grilled. (252 calories, 33g protein, 11.5g fat; 9g fat for select grade)

Sirloin is from the longer end of the loin. A perfect candidate for marinades and dry rubs. (229 calories, 34g protein, 9g fat; 5.5g fat for select grade)

T-bone conies from the center of the short loin with the signature T-shaped bone. Best broiled or grilled. (247 calories, 32g protein, 12g fat; 10g fat for select grade)

Porterhouse originates from the large end of the short loin and also has a T-shaped bone. (247 calories, 32g protein, 12g fat; 10g fat for select grade)

Flank is taken from the rear-flank area. The least tender of all steaks, this cut must be marinated for several hours before broiling or grilling. (256 calories, 30g protein, 12g fat; 10g fat for select grade)