Guy getaway: Nashville: turn any town into Vegas with our monthly guide to the world

Men's Fitness, March, 2004 by Bobby Mitchell

THIS WAS ONCE the home of every hayseed with a goofy hat, a guitar, and a dream. Not anymore. Today it's quite the opposite: a mini Vegas, but without the hookers, gambling, and buffets (well, at least the last two). The home of country music is quite possibly your single greatest long-weekend destination.

WHERE TO STAY

Renaissance Hotel (one block off Broadway): Sober or, er, other than sober, this highrise is stumbling distance from the strip. It can even be reached piggy-backing one of Nashville's finest honky-tonk lovelies back to your room, with enough energy left over for an Aerosmith-video-style elevator ride. After you've fulfilled your boyhood fantasies, head down to the hotel's dining room, where you can build your energy back for a challenging workout in the hotel fitness center.

WHAT TO SEE

Ryman Auditorium: Formerly known as the original Grand Ole Opry, Ryman is most famous for giving stars like Elvis and the coal miner's daughter national attention. You may not see Kid Rock onstage, but you will see where America's music put down its roots.

Vanderbilt University: A sight in itself, it's situated in a diverse neighborhood with plenty of pubs and eateries.

Music Row: a historic area of Chicago-style bungalows converted into recording studios. In the past couple of decades, Music Row has become one of the hippest recording spots in the nation. Some artists say recording here feels like being back with your high school band in your parents' basement.

WHERE TO EAT

Jack's Bar-b-que boasts the best barbecue in Nashville. Old black-and-white photos line the walls, featuring every celebrity who has burned his or her tongue on Jack's ass-kicking BBQ sauce.

The Stockyard steakhouse serves up aged meat fit for a king. More of an upscale place to fill up, but in the band of rednecks, sometimes a reality check is in the cards.

Jackson's Bar and Bistro, slap dab in the heart of the West End district, has great pub food. You can grab a Southern chicken wrap and a Bud after a Vanderbilt ballgame, and maybe see Merle Haggard stroll by.

HOW TO PASS THE TIME

Golf: Hermitage, the Legends, and Springhouse may not be world famous, but they offer some great bargains. And all three have hosted PGA-sanctioned tournaments. $14 per hour and a half.

Hiking: Just 90 miles southeast of Nashville in Monteagle is the Fiery Gizzard Trail in Grundy Forest, where, legend has it, Davy Crockett seared his tongue on a hot turkey gizzard. The area sports rock gorges and waterfalls. If time is on your side, drive an hour south and see Ruby Falls and Lookout Mountain in chattanooga.

WHERE TO PARTY

Broadway is a collection of honky-tonks with live music all day and night, no cover charges, and friendly people everywhere. Even if you're not a country-music fan, the energy and excitement will carry you through the weekend. The starched wranglers, Uncle Bud belt buckles, and cowboy hats are still rampant in Nashville.

Tootsie's Orchid Lounge for: live local bands that arouse the ladies. Don't forget your deodorant--it's tight quarters.

The Stage for: more traditional live music. Start the night here, but finish at ...

Legends Corner for: an always-predictable high energy level. On any given night, you might be entertained by one of country's hottest stars. They stop in frequently to wail out a song or four.