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Exploring The United Arab Emirates

Contemporary Review,  June, 2001  by Habeeb Salloum

'IS this not one of Sindbad the Sailor's ports?', a British engineer coming to work in the United Arab Emirates asked as we walked our of the attractive Abu Dhabi Airport. We were in a good mood. Unlike many airports in the world, we had been whisked through customs and immigration in less than ten minutes. 'If he existed, Abu Dhabi could very well have been one of his home ports', I smilingly responded as we made our way to catch a taxi.

A collection of mud huts a few decades ago, Abu Dhabi today, virtually a new city, put my daughter, Muna, and myself in a happy mood -- a promising beginning for our exploration of the United Arab Emirates. Nowhere, as we drove to our hotel, could we see traces of Sindbad's time. The broad tree-lined avenues, edged by whitewashed buildings, gave no indication that for untold centuries this had been a desert land. The past had been hidden by the affluence of the modem world.

In this city springing out of the Arabian Nights, we began our exploration of the United Arab Emirates. An ultra-modern city of skyscrapers, towering to the heavens, landscaped gardens and streets lined with trees and flowers, it was a breath-taking beginning to our coming exploration of the country. For us, it was easy to imagine that Abu Dhabi's magic was to be found in the whole of the U.A.E., consisting of seven states: Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Sharjah, Ajman, Umm Al Quwain, Ras Al Khamiah and Fujairah -- all with capitals carrying the same name as the state.

One of the most vibrant urban centres on the globe, Abu Dhabi's majestic modem grand hotels, the five mile long Corniche, edged on one side by lush greenery and on the other by clean white-sandy beaches, lapped by a tranquil blue sea; and 26 flower-filled parks, sprinkled with manicured lawns, ornate fountains and walkways make it one of the most wonderful cities in the world in which to live.

In the last few years tourists, like us, have discovered this twenty-first century city in the sand. In winter, when the temperature averages around 25 degrees C, Europeans come to enjoy its clean and crime-free streets, lush greenery, fine hotels with pleasant staff and restaurants serving most of the world's foods. Almost all the leisure activities, including night life, are to be found in the hotels. There is also a wide range of modem sport facilities, from ice skating to tour companies which offer camel racing, dhow sailing and safaris into the desert for dune riding or sand skiing and entertainment under the stars.

After spending two days in this modern Arabian Night's city we rented a small auto, then began our tour. Ahmad, a Abu Dhabian friend we were taking with us to Al Am, waved his hand outside the car window: 'Look at these blooming flowers, date palms, luxurious homes and towering buildings! When I first came to work in Abu Dhabi, all one could see in this area were desert bushes and endless sand'. He continued, 'You know, it is said that in those days, Sheikh Zayed, our President, used to stop at this very spot and visit Bedouin families camped on the sands'. Ahmed, still waving his hand as we drove on a wide avenue, edged by lush greenery, went on, 'He would tell his hosts, poor by modern standards, "See this barren land! One day it will be covered with landscaped gardens and lofty mansions".'

What prophetic words! All that Sheikh Zayed prophesied and more have, under his leadership, come true. From a ramshackle small town of mud huts, surrounded by desert waste, Abu Dhabi has been recast in the last quarter century into gleaming skyscrapers, eye-catching villas and large emerald-like parks. The city's skyline, better than in words, tells the story of a transformation of unparalleled proportions. The City of Abu Dhabi, with a population of more than 600,000, has succeeded in developing at an unbelievable speed until today, for a first-time visitor, it is difficult to decide what part of the city is the most remarkable.

Soon we were travelling on a tree-lined desert highway, edged by newly planted forests in a once all-encompassing desert, to Al Ain, a trip of 100 miles. A testimony of what man can create from a desert waste, Al Ain is a stunningly attractive oasis-city of more than a quarter million edged by the handsome Omani Mountains. Its modem fairytale structures, tree-lined boulevards with their roundabouts topped by greenery and flowers in the midst of which are set fountains representing facets of Arab life, are a joy to behold.

These are edged by architecturally imaginative modem villas, apartment buildings and majestic mosques -- all blending together with the greenery. After cruising along Al Ain's spotless streets and exploring some of its 60 parks, I heartily agreed with Muna's remark, 'Imagine! All this greenery! And a few miles away lies the inhospitable desert hugging this enchanting modern world!'

During our one-day stay we explored Hili Botanical Gardens with their carpets of flowers and 5,000-year-old reconstructed tombs; the Hili Fun City, a children's pleasure wonderland with charming gardens, a man-made lake, games and rides; the bustling camel market, the last of its kind in the Emirates; the Al Ain Museum, containing many finds made by archaeologists in the surrounding countryside; the impressive Al Ain Zoo and aquarium; and the natural springs and splendid park of Ain al Faydhah.