Sensitive plus-size approach gains acceptance at mass

Discount Store News, April 5, 1999 by Mike Duff

Discounters are beginning to realize that a stylish merchandising approach that the customer can appreciate is the key to selling plus sizes. But appreciation is achieved by more than just an attractive presentation; retailers have to better understand the plus-size customer, which starts by offering her the same level of service and fashion as other shoppers.

The learning curve isn't quite the same for all vendors and retailers, though. In the case of retail giant Wal-Mart, sensitivity begins with removing the somewhat pejorative plus-size label from the category. Thus, large-sized female apparel is displayed beneath signage that identifies the section as Women's. Accompanying the designation on the sign is the information that the section includes sizes 14W to 28W. Wal-Mart decided that the plus-size designation might be demeaning to some of its customers and has decided to merchandise the category on its own terms.

"It's more compassionate," said John Quay, an assistant manager in soft lines, on the occasion of a Wal-Mart grand opening in Ledge-wood, N.J.

There has been growing recognition that mass marketers have to do more for plus-size customers. In part, that may arise from the strength of specialists that have been winning market share from discounters. In 1997, specialists controlled 26.2% of the $22.7 billion market in plus sizes, up from $24.7% of the year earlier's $21.3 billion market, according to NPD Group, a marketing information company. Discounters slipped from 20% of the market in 1996 to 19.7% the following year. While NPD didn't have a store breakout available, it said the market reached $23.7 billion in 1998.

Specialists, such as Catherines Stores, have posted strong numbers recently--1998 sales up to $295.3 million from $277.2; net income up to $7.6 million from $44,000; comps up 8.9%--and Lane Bryant has credited a turnaround to updating product and merchandising.

Because they are closer to the customers and more focused on providing attractive apparel and environments to plus-size consumers, specialists are in a good position to build on demand for a better shopping experience. But the demand isn't lost on discounters, which are reaching out to the plus-size consumer in a number of ways. In Canada, Zellers has tapped actress Delta Burke in an effort to develop a private label program that associates its plus-size offerings with celebrity glamour.

In the United States, Kmart has upgraded both its plus-size apparel and merchandising as it focuses generally on central shopper demands. "We're trying to refocus everything to the customer. In some stores, that means more plus sizes with better quantity and fixturing," said Jack Smailes, senior vp and gmm, soft lines.

At Bradlees, more fashionable merchandise has been pushed up front in plus-size sections. Although basics such as fleece continue to hold a position in the segment, plus-size consumers immediately want to see that they have a full range of choices, from basics to fashion, with an emphasis on the stylish.

"Basics have been tough; fashion has been good," said Jim Sparks, senior vp and gmm, soft lines. "Plus-size customers want to see fashion on the main floor."