Hem's rise & fall: a lengthy matter - women's skirts - Special Supplement: AM Apparel Merchandising

Discount Store News, June 21, 1993

Skirts are in transition. Long lengths are making a strong comeback, but most retailers are not about to abandon the short skirt completely. Perhaps they remember the third-degree burns they had suffered when the market switched lengths too abruptly several years ago.

"We don't want to make the customer's decision about length for her," notes Kathleen Hurley, vice president, general merchandise manager, soft lines, Rose's Stores.

The good news for mass merchandisers is that customers' evaluations of hemlines have sparked renewed interest in the category in both lengths.

The trend is also testing retailers' merchandising expertise. In an "almost anything goes" fashion era, this kind of emerging trend is testing retailers' ability to respond to both new fashion developments and their own customers? demands.

"Our customers adjust quickly to changing trends. They want them," says Karen Cotton, divisional merchandise manager, Bradlees, Braintree, Mass. "Once it hits the department store, my customer's right on target, and not a season behind"

However, it takes a savvy merchandiser to know which style and look their customer wants.

In general, skirts currently on the market go from a short 21 inches to 30 and 32 inches long.skirts began to fall this past spring, with hemlines two or three inches below the knee. By fall, most will probably be ankle length, according to a number of merchandisers.

The trend has served as an opportunity to increase sales in an area usually unemphasized in the mass market. "We don't have a large skirt business, but a long crinkle skirt has been one of our best sellers this spring," notes Cotton. "Long skirts started doing well about three months ago and are going to continue right through fall."

In addition, long flowing country-style dresses have also done well for Bradlees, especially in its new Yonkers, N.Y., store, which has a larger dress area than other Bradlees.

Hurley notes that Roses is also taking the opportunity to grab incremental sales. "The skirt category has not been as important for us in the past; we have a more developed sportswear business," she says. "But we are seeing some resurgence and will be bringing in skirts for fall and back-to-school."

A big proponent of the long skirts is Columbus, Ohio-based Value City. "Right now our mix is about 80 percent short and 20 percent long. That number will probably be reversed by the middle of the back-to-school season," predicts Joe Goldstein, merchandise manager, women's wear.

The trend toward long lengths transcends demographic and merchandising categories. "We're selling long skirts in juniors as well as missy, from budget to better merchandise all the way through," Goldstein says.

Initially, the long lengths addressed the fickle trend demands of juniors in mass market chains. Now, long skirts overall are selling well in both juniors and misses sizes. The same can be said for short skirts.

While certain skirt models cross customer segments, some styles seem to have more juniors appeal. Others are being bought by misses shoppers.

In general, long loose skirts are selling to juniors while more constructed styles are moving in misses.

Casual short skirts in denim and canvas remain hits with the juniors crowd. Long sheer peasant models are also proving attractive to this group. Knee length career skirts are selling in misses departments at stores such as Bradlees. In its Yonker's store a collection of linen separates, with a long narrow slitted skirt, is also attracting more sophisticated career wear shoppers.

For Bradlees, the new Yonkers store is also a micromarketing challenge. "It's like we're merchandising for the chain, and then for the Yonkers store," says Cotton, who admits that Bradlees is testing more upscale merchandise with a fashion edge in that store. As a barometer of fashion, the direction of the Yonkers store is definitely moving toward the longer lengths, especially in juniors, says Cotton.

Rose's is remaining true to its sportswear origins in merchandising the longer styles for fall. Most of its fall skirt offerings will be denim, in traditional indigo. In addition the store will feature some denim in fall shades like hunter green.

Hurley expects shorter basic denim skirts to do well in early back-to-school, with longer lengths to pick up later. One of the styles it will offer is a sarong type skirt with fringe detail.

The question of long or short is being addressed in a simple fashion by manufacturers. They're producing both. "Length is not a big issue anymore," notes Joi Wildman, fashion director, women's wear, at Gitano. "We're offering them in both lengths." For Wildman, a small detail like a side slit can change the category of the skirt.

"Our older customer has always wanted a long denim skirt," says Wildman. "Now, we're making long skirts with high slits that are more leg revealing. That look translates to both juniors and missy. The resurgence of the '70s hippie looks have made long appealing for all markets."

The hippie trend has also meant a return of bellbottoms and of ankle length knit vests. The latter is being offered by Bonjour for its more adventurous customers. However, skirts and dresses remain the areas where the hemline battle is being fought hardest.