Apparel strives for continuity: direction of womenswear a critical factor

Discount Store News, June 23, 1997 by James Mammarella

A Kmart spokesperson told DSN that the new male icon could help promote and position the chain's menswear assortments.

Aside from the progress of Jaclyn Smith and Kathy Ireland as pop icons, Kmart must get in the swing of differentiating the product on the floor. Hall has acknowledged that the chain's chief apparel opportunities lie in plus sizes, maternity and womenswear in general. Much as vendors had feared during a Kmart-style summit last winter, former divisional vp of womenswear Maria Comfort's vision of on-trend fashion at downmarket prices turned into a $100 million inventory bulge for the first quarter of 1997. Hall told shareholders that the merchandise "was a little young." Ironically, Comfort's experience prior to Kmart was in children's apparel.

Still, her predecessor, Michele Fortune, came aboard from Ann Taylor, where she presumably mastered the art of delivering classic and updated traditional looks.

What then will work for Kmart in womenswear?

* Walk and talk instinctively within the mass market;

* Build on the base Kmart has established with the help of leading resources in commodity knits, denim, intimates and accessories;

* Define and execute distinct viewpoints for the Basic Editions label and the Kathy Ireland franchise as it extends from activewear to casuals and fashion basics (there is too much overlap now between the two).

The women's assortment has good assets on the floor. Route 66 in denim-driven goods and Regatta as a translation of Nautica in casual are well-executed across classifications.

Kmart has other strengths. Its joint venture shoe departments (with J. Baker division Meldisco) have never looked better. Boxed presentations and crisp signage--Made for Men, Women's Choice, Kids' Parade--are spiced with seasonal accents, such as the Family Beachwear Center double-endcap treatment that features five styles of Baywatch-licensed thongs. Hall said moving the departments off the back wall in the 400 Big K store resets has boosted performance.

In Kidsworld, where Route 66 and Chic are among the more coherent programs, the chain is counting on a lift from the planned late August debut of Sesame Street, licensed by the Children's Television Network. At least some of the goods will feature very large graphics of the characters, which include Bert, Ernie, Big Bird and Elmo of "Tickle-me" fame. Hall, who was joined on the podium at the annual shareholders meeting by an 8-ft.-tall Big Bird, said Kmart will field a major marketing campaign for the launch.

Kmart will create a stronger presence in Big Men's, Hall said, that will be for men of every size and set adjacent to hardware and sporting goods, which should increase sales volume. In activewear, the chain is juggling the same resources available to most mass merchants, whether branded, licensed or private label, and has yet to differentiate its assortment.

In denim, Kmart's departments have seldom looked better. Levi Strauss & Co. threw Kmart a curve ball with the sudden decision last January to dump its Brittania Sportswear division. But this month Levi's sale of Brittania to VF Corp. eased Kmart's use of Brittania as a denim lifestyle brand in jeans and in a score of licensed categories.