Petites grow at discounters - petite-sizes women's clothing - Apparel

Discount Store News, July 8, 1991 by Jill Lettich

"We carry petites, but I never think there are enough in any store," lamented one buyer from Syms, Secaucus, N.J., who wears petites.

Help is on the way. It appears discounters are hearing this kind of plea from their customers and are beginning to test the waters in petites.

For many years discounters' concentration on special sizes was aimed primarily at the large size market (sizes 16 and over). This category boasts busy departments at discounters. In addition, a bevy of specialty chains address the large size customer, including Lerner Woman, Dress Barn Woman and Lane Bryant.

Chains that specialize in smaller sizes do not come as easily to mind. Syms, Loehmann's and other off-pricers have more visible petite departments, but lack a high profile mass market brand name to sell.

Many full-liners have more limited space in this area and a smaller selection of brands from which to choose.

"It's a very viable business, but one that is more difficult to turn. Not as many people that manufacture apparel for the mass market are making it," said Steve Drexler, dmm, Stuarts.

Stuarts, and other regional chains such as Prange Way, Green Bay, Wis.--which has shifted its emphasis from juniors to large sizes--find their customers more likely to buy bigger.

Even retailers such as Fred Meyer, Portland, Ore., which do well with the category, admit a lack of high profile brand names. According to Rob Boley, Meyer spokesman, "there is a higher percentage of private label merchandise in petites."

This is beginning to change. There are a number of manufacturers and retailers that want to capitalize on the strength of the petite customer (measuring under 5 feet 3 inches), which is estimated as encompassing between 35% to 45% of U.S. women.

Cape Cod, Chic and Gitano (in jeans) are familiar U.S. names, and to the special size customer as well.

Debra Grafton, vp, gmm, Kmart, explained that petite women were an important base of shoppers. "Someone could go from a size 12 to a size 20, or lose weight from a size 20 to a size 12. But a woman that is petite--a measurement based on height--we've got her for life," she said.

Kmart has featured petite sizes for a number of years, but this year it invested heavily in this customer with the introduction of Jaclyn Smith Petites.

According to Grafton, the line has the same styling and coloration as the regular sized line, but with adjustments for fit such as shorter sleeves and inseams.

"We kept the same styles and colors for two reasons," Grafton said. "It is unlikely a woman would want a different style just because she is shorter. Also, we wanted to provide the opportunity for the petite customer to find a jacket in the petite area, but still have her be able to go to the regular size blouses and find a match."

Like the regular Jaclyn Smith line, Kmart's exclusive in-store brand, collections for the new line will change four to five times a year and will adhere to season and trends as they occur.

Kmart also attempted to make shopping for the petite customer easier by featuring a "P" tag on various apparel on its women's area.

"We have petite size merchandise in other areas. For instance, petite jeans are featured in our denim area. We make a point of putting the tag on the merchandise to catch the shopper's attention," she said.

Hit or Miss is also banking that its career-oriented customers will be ready for a line of petite apparel. The chain is testing a line in a few of its stores. One of its units, in Nashua, N.H., featured pretty but practical dresses for the hard-working woman. Signs above the area are used to identify the category.

The fact that fit is such an important aspect of serving the petite customer may be one reason there is reluctance to get into the category.

In addition, Grafton admitted that though Kmart has tried to keep its petite merchandise the same as other sizes, some styling changes had to be considered.

"A small floral will work on any size garment," she noted. "But a large floral is problematic. A petite woman would just get lost in the print. We had to take all these elements into consideration in creating the line."

One positive aspect of offering petite merchandise is the possibility of higher margins. "We find our customers are willing to invest more in the right garment," she said. "They are willing to spend $30 on a jacket."

Surprisingly, Grafton noted that larger size petites account for a larger percentage of petite sales. People more easily associate "petite" with small, but it refers to height alone, not size.

At off-pricers, petite merchandise that often tops $50 moves relatively quickly, though this includes department store and some designer labels.

Boley is optimistic about the future of petite sizes. "We feel strongly about all our specialty areas and expect to continue developing them," he said. Grafton also anticipates growth. "The department has been steadily growing and next year it will be bigger than it ever has been," she said.