Bows, bangles & beads - clothing accessories - Special Supplement: A/M

Discount Store News, August 3, 1992 by Jill Lettich

While basic reigns in ready-to-wear, the accessories area favors fashion at discount stores.

The category--encompassing many different product lines--has grown steadily in the last few years. in all likelihood, the hike in accessories is due to the sluggish economy. Accessories are relatively low-priced items that consumers can use to snap up their wardrobes without large out-of-pocket expenditures. In addition, customers are using accessories for fashion zip in a decidedly basic apparel cycle.

Almost every discount retailer has revamped or expanded their accessory department's in some ways. From adding new fixtures, to increasing space in new prototype stores, discounters garner about a third of what is at least a $1.2 billion women's accessories industry, according to The NPD Group, Port Washington, N.Y., and they are poised to take an even bigger bite out of the category. Those figures do not include jewelry which industry experts say adds another $2 billion to the discount store.

Retailers are hoping to keep the momentum for the category going. In 1991, for instance, retail sales for accessories increased close to 18 percent from a year earlier, according to NPD.

The key in keeping shoppers interested in accessories is trend merchandising.

"For instance, we have shifted inventory and space for stronger categories like hats and hair goods this year," says Maxine Clark, executive vice president of Venture, O'Fallon, Mo. Belts, however have been played down recently. In the latest Venture prototype stores, these quick fashion shifts are occurring in stores with up to 15 percent more floor space devoted to accessories.

By using more slotted fixtures and hanging accessories like handbags on divider walls, Jamesway was able to maximize the department at its new prototypes.

According to Ben Hurlick, divisional merchandise manager, distinctive sales areas created for various products helped traffic flow better through the entire accessory department.

Even off-prices such as Loehmann's are adding more accessories.

The retailer's new Los Angeles store will include a broader array of handbags, belts and other accessories when it opens in October.

Kmart is also making a play for the accessory customer. Its premiere private label brand, Jaclyn Smith, was expanded to include costume jewelry last year. Recently, a set of watches under that level was introduced.

These retail efforts are necessary as specialty stores like Accessory Place become yet another competing format (like Warehouse Clubs) for full-line discounters.

With the growing importance of the category, however, also comes a new challenge for manufacturers of accessories. Differentiation, every retailer's favorite work, is as vital in accessories as in any other department. Manufacturers are accomplishing this by combining fashion-right products with innovative packaging and in some cases by helping retailers with fixturing.

"The packaging, how it hangs in the department and the pricing are all part of the product, not just the particular accessory," explains Pamela Serure, director of merchandising and design for licensed products, Gitano.

Hair Goods

Hair accessories are among the hot categories at retail right now.

Venture's Clark notes that they have been the strongest accessory categories at her store. Venture's assortment emphasizes a wide range of colors and more space and inventory devoted to the category. To make room on the floor belts were scaled back.

Hair bows, alone and in multi-packs, are doing well in both prints and solids that coordinate with the season's fashion colors. This year fuchsia and turquoise have been top sellers.

Fabric-covered tie-backs spurred hair accessories a few years ago. Today, bows, headbands and embellished tie-backs are more the norm. The fabrics and trims naturally match the details popular in ready-to-wear.

Denim is expected to produce big sell-throughs in juniors for back-to-school. Sheers, pleated styles and chiffons are providing a more dressed up choice that's also expected to sell well. Cotton, twill and taffeta are among the many fabric choices.

At Kmart, as at most retailers, the hair accessories are hung on a revolving floor stand. But in some specialty stores and off-pricers, counter baskets filled with hair goods often draw bargain-hunter customers.

Hats and Caps

While hair goods were winners in the girls' and ladies' area, caps were tops across all markets during 1991, and retailers anticipate more winning cap seasons ahead.

The trend in caps began in the men's and boys' area at discount. Baseball caps with sports team logos were all the rage and were big seller across the country.

The trend, which in large part trickled up, rather than down, quickly exploded into other markets and at every retail tier. Bloomingdale's now has nearly as large a selection of caps as Wal-Mart.

As in hair accessories, color is the key issue. Venture offers baseball caps in 15 colors on a private label basis. In addition to the spectrum of colors, denim will play a big role in caps at Venture.