In-fashion niche cosmetics lure younger shoppers

Discount Store News, August 5, 1996

Sales of men's and women's fragrances slowed substantially in the mass market in 1995 due to a lack of exciting product launches, mounting competition and an aging consumer base. Ames cut back on its fragrances business while Wal-Mart, Kmart, Caldor and Bradlees remain devoted to the category.

Younger consumers who wear fragrances at an earlier age and use them more frequently are being heavily targeted by launches like Renaissance Cosmetics' White Chantilly, a flanker brand for Chantilly. The company's re-launch of Tabu and Chantilly also proved successful. Renaissance is also set to launch Navigator, a flanker brand for Canoe targeted to the twentysomething man.

Casual and sporty are the buzzwords in men's fragrances. New scents like Tsamura's Pierre Cardin Sportif, Ralph Lauren's Polo Sport, Richard Barrie's Baryshnikov Sport and Avon's Pro Fitness for Men. On the horizon will be a Michael Jordan fragrance by Bijan Fragrances, due out this fall.

Knockoffs were abundant. Many are trying to capture the essence of the highly successful CK One, a unisex fragrance launched by Calvin Klein more than two years ago, and other popular designer fragrances. Yaz Enterprises introduced MKTwo, a knockoff of CK One; Jean Phillippe has a version of Elizabeth Taylor's new Black Pearls, and Tristar has its versions of Tommy, CK One and Sunflowers.

Procter & Gamble has put several of its mass fragrance brands up for sale as part of a minor brand divestiture program. On the selling block are NaVy, NaVy for Men, Jaclyn Smith's California, California for Men, Incognito, Le Jardin and Toujours Moi. The company will retain Old Spice after-shave and cologne as part of its broader product mix.

Long-wearing cosmetics including nail, face, lip and eye continue to have staying power. These innovative products have been led by Revlon's ColorStay franchise, which has experienced double-digit growth according to several discounters. Additions to the ColorStay line include a face product and a long-lasting mascara that will round out the line, which already includes ColorStay eye shadow and eyeliners.

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