Fashioning form and function - bodywear - Apparel Merchandising Supplement

Discount Store News, August 21, 1995

Selling bodywear is an exercise in commitment.

One would think that it would be fairly easy for retailers to build a successful bodywear business, what with America's obsession with fitness and fashion's latest turn toward streetwear.

So why are some chains successful with bodwear while others flounder?

The answer may lie in the fact that bodywear is not a commodity, like underwear or basic fleece. Instead, it is part of lifestyle apparel, and much like fashion clothing, nurturing bodywear to fruition takes time and energy.

"Stores are so used to selling clothing day to day, they're usually not used to selling a lifestyle," says Mindy Solkin, marketing director for New York-based Attitudes in Dressing. which produces the Bodywrappers line that's sold to chain stores.

Yet some discounters have a handle on lifestyle retailing.

Kmart has turned bodywear into a chainwide signature business by concentrating on the development of its two house labels. Kathy Ireland is the chain's premier active and fitness collection, backed by the supermodel and certified aerobics instructor of the same name. The line that sells for under $20 is aimed at a 20- to 45-year-old contemporary customer. The Body Company, an opening price point basics collection, was formerly plugged by weight lifter Rachel McLish but now stands unendorsed.

Cross-promotion is also in the plans at Kmart. In January, the chain will kick off Fitness Month, during which awareness about exercise and health issues will be raised through a number of promotional events currently being planned between Kmart and several yet undetermined outside sources.

Bodywear will be cross-promoted in circulars with other product categories such as sporting goods.

"I think the whole idea of fitness will be at its height with the Olympics coming to Atlanta next summer," says Lynda Boyd, Kmart's bodywear and activewear buyer, adding that she plans to spottight the Olympic spirit with Americana themes in the chain's bodywear selection. Product from Hanes Her Way's Olympic licensed line may be in the mix. "We will address Americana in some form or another," says Boyd. Caldor., based in Norwalk, Conn., developed a lucrative bodywear business by stocking a far-reaching assortment with an accent on fashion and value.

"I think we've been successful with bodywear because we're covering the entire consumer spectrum, whether it be in suburbia or in urban areas," reports Jane Thompson, divisional merchandise manager of jewelry, watches and aocessories. "Most of America works out these days, and there is a lot of business to be had in bodywear. But we're also managing to reach an active customer who wears bodywear as streetwear,"

Commodity-driven stores, however, have had less success.

Take Rose's, for instance, a discounter based in Henderson., N.C., that operates outlets in rural areas. "We just don't do well with bodywear," explains Kathy Hurley, vice president and general merchandise manager of soft lines. "If we do carry any bodywear. it's a minimal assortment grouped with sportswear." Although Canton, Mass.-based Hills. whose future is now tentative, is known for its seasoned selection of branded and private label soft lines, the chain struggles with bodywear.

Hills' bodywear problems are now being realized as the chain searches for an identity in an arena where successful regional chains are few and far between. "Plain and simple, bodywear just wasn't working for us," admits Jeff Califano, divisional merchandise manager of juniors, missy and plus-size sportswear at Hills. "We even went so far as to cross-merchandise it with weights and exercise videos. That didn't significantly enhance the business."

In the Midwest and in rural towns, the chain couldn't give bodywear away. But in its top 50 stores, which are located in strip malls in metropolitan areas, bodywear sold well, selling even better when the strip mall also housed a health club.

Hills is not willing to let selective poor performance cause a bodywear dismissal. Instead, Califano plans to micromarket by re-introducing the classification into the chain's top 50 stores in January, with a focus on proven vendors such as Jacques Mordt and L.A. Movers.

External factors such as health clubs or rural locales don't seem to hold national chains back. Wal-Mart, Kmart and Target have experienced success with bodywear apparently because they have the open-to-buy dollars and manpower to make it work in virtually any setting.

Regional Venture Stores has also been able to pull bodywear off, but has recently had a tough run internally with the category--not because its customers aren't embracing the concept, but due to competition from similar looks sold in its own sportswear department.

"Although many customers are using bodywear as streetwear, my business is suffering because the sportswear department is selling leggings, bike shorts and T-shirts at lower retail prices," says Fred Kraft, divisional merchandise manager of bodywear, footwear, handbags, leather accessories and pens for the O'Fallon, Mo.-based retailer.