Jeans manufacturers say basic variety will grab denim sales

Discount Store News, Sept 3, 1990 by Jill Lettich

Jeans Manufacturers Say Basic Variety Will Grab Denim Sales

The latest news from the jeans industry is yet another finishing technique has been discovered by a rifleman in Texas. Yes, bullet-ridden jeans have come of age.

While it is unlikely that the major men's jeans manufacturers will jump on this fashion bandwagon, it does prove that the standard ol' blue jean is hardly standard anymore. With diminishing sales a market reality in the last few years, jeans manufacturers have had to come up with reasons for customers to buy more. For a while, they did just that.

Currently, regardless of age, it is likely the average closet has a basic five-pocket blue jean. A younger consumer probably owns a baggy pair of denims, in acid, stone or ice washes. Younger still, and the wearer has a pair in black or one with cargo pockets. Older and wider leg styles are wardrobe musts. The possibilities are endless. But guess what: The five-pocket basic is back.

While manufacturers scramble to find the perfect, best selling pair, retailers have held back somewhat. While the fancier finishes and designs have been brought into the younger market, most are reluctant to abandon the five pocket icon. In its newest advertising campaign, K mart features both Wrangler and Brittania jeans at a special price of $14.88. But the sale items are the perennial five-pocket favorites. Brittania's model is offered in an acid-washed finish, while Wrangler is offered in black or blue stonewash.

"Truthfully, there are no major trends evident in the market," said Chuck Rilling, men's merchandising manager of Jamesway. "I'd love to see a trend pop, but it hasn't happened." What has happened at Jamesway and other retailers is the buying decision is coming down to the finishes. While Rilling pinpoints darker washes as showing promise, Tony Vaal at K mart cites lighter acid and stonewashes as good sellers.

"Jeans have been slow except for those at our opening price point of $20. These are five-pocket basics, although they do come in a variety of washes," said Gene Kozack, president of NBO. He admits that NBO is not the first store potential jeans' buyers think of, and it has been conservative in the number of styles it offers.

Jeans manufacturers exhibiting at MAGIC have their own favorites. Irwin Tenen, vice president of H.I.S. by Chic, noted that stretch is a promising fabric trend and Mary Pat Lester of Gitano is expecting "anti-fit" jeans to take off. But that basic five-pocket is mentioned by all.

"The customer wants variety, even in basics," maintains Lester. That truism sets the stage for the range of jeans finishes now on the market.

Sasson men's jeanswear offers its range of finishes in a grouping marketed to a relatively young customer. Sasson has made an aggressive comeback with its jeans label offering a complete line of men's wear products.

At H.I.S., the five-pocket is now offered in a relaxed style, according to Tenen. He also anticipates black, both overdyed and acid washed will continue to sell. "Cargo pockets have slowed," he admitted.

Brittania will also offer a looser fit, and has based its entire fall advertising on the comfort and fit of its new-style jeans.

At Gitano, jeans will go beyond relaxed to an ultra loose fitting style called "anti-fit," which will be offered belted probably to keep the new line of Gitano men's underwear hidden from public view.

"There's also a more beach feeling to many of the new styles," Lester noted. "A lot of light washes, elastic on waists and bottoms and lighterweight fabrics as light as 8 or 10 ounces will be important for spring. The indications we get from retailers now are great."

According to Eli Herrari, head of Gitano's men division, much of the company's success in jeans sales, despite the market climate, is due to its attention to the merchandising aspect of the business. "We have our own shops that we watch and learn from. One of the things we did with the basic five-pocket is put it on an H-card fixture on wheels," he said. "The jeans were neatly folded and a strip told the size. In more than one store, the folded jeans outsold those on a traditional round rack by as much as 6-to-1. It was very enlightening."

The merchandising aspect is important for Bonjour as well, which shows its full range of denim products in an exhibit resembling its own concept shop at MAGIC. According to Linda Elton, director of licensing for Bonjour, the company's booth is designed to show retailers the potential for merchandising its entire men's line.

McGregor, one of the leaders in the shop concept in men's, is showing a jeans line for the first time at MAGIC. Peter Felberbaum, president admits the climate in men's jeans has been less than bubbly, but dismisses the notion that there is no room for a new jeans' line. "Contrary to popular belief, we felt there was a void in the marketplace that needed to be filled. If you look at the design, the label and the packaging, you see that there is a reason for its being," Felberbaum said.