Fleece a fashion heavyweight - wool products - Men - AM: Apparel Merchandising

Discount Store News, Sept 2, 1991

Fleece a fashion heavyweight

The remarkable thing about fleece is that at times it acts like a Honda in those TV commercials - "it practically sells itself."

Well, it may not be quite that easy, but the right brand, fabric weight, color and silhouette will certainly sway shoppers.

It's true that this tough economic year pushed cautious retailers to put off their own buying decisions about the products. But tentative attitudes were offset by consumers who bought fleece - often.

In fact, according to both retailers and manufacturers, fleece will generate double-digit sales increases for the second half of the year.

"We're optimistic. Inventories are at good levels and if our projections hold true, it will be a good fleece year," says Bill Horne, president of Bassett-Walker, makers of the Lee brand of fleece.

Ed Henderlong, fleece product manager, Russell, anticipates shipments for the second half of 1991 will show an increase of 75 percent over last year. He admits that this figure includes delayed shipments as many retailers buy closer to the season that they did last year. This should be a welcome relief for the company, which reported decreased profits in the second quarter.

In addition to caution triggered by the recession, retailers, ironically, were able to delay buying because of the increased capacity for fleece production. A few seasons ago capacity was so tight, a retailer had to order early or risk running low on fleece products.

Fleece's continued success at retail is based primarily on two trends: the influx of heavier weights and fashionably detailed styles.

Heavyweight fleece, virtually always at higher price points, continues to grow in market share. Henderlong says that heavyweight fleece has been the Russell category with the largest percentage increases. In addition, he believes it offers discounters something new. Henderlong notes that his discount store customers prefer the heavier-weight fabric in men's and women's styles, contrary to some people's image of these retailers as blindly price-oriented. "Retailers prefer the fashion and fabric weight. They are trying to find their niche and getting away from competing strictly against price," he says.

Bassett Walker reports that its heavyweight garment sales increased by 25 percent over last year. Horne says the company is very aggressive in its stance toward the heavyweight product. Production for the 9 ounce fleece has gone from 27 to 56 percent and he anticipates increasing that to 70 percent of Lee's production next year. "We're working our way out of the mid-weight fleece," he says.

At Jack's, a regional discount chain based in Quincy, Ill., the investment in heavyweight fleece is dramatic. According to Lincoln Lieber, men's buyer, Jack's customers show no resistance to the higher price points of heavyweight fleece products. In fact, except for a 7 ounce men's fleece short and a few children's wear items, all of the fleece in its store is 9 ounce.

"We switched over to the 9 ounce product last year in the college logo items. This year, all of our men's and women's fleece has been switched over to the heavier weight. The 7 ounce product in children's does better. That market still shows some price resistance," he says.

Surprisingly, at many larger retail chains this greater volume of heavy fleece is not at the expense of mid-weight products, but in addition to them.

Dennis Sargent, divisional merchandise manager, men's, for New York-based Alexander's, says fall and holiday will find more heavy fleece products in his store, but no decrease in the lighter-weight styles the stores have traditionally offered. "The heavier fleece does come with a slightly higher price point, but it has no adverse effect on our sales. It's really a different customer," he notes.

The different customers include the value-driven shopper who looks for the opening price point and the fashion maven looking for the latest innovation. Sargent, however, believes both groups are savvy shoppers. "Even in the opening price points, brand names are very important," he says. Alexander's carries, among other labels, Hanes and Fruit of the Loom.

While heavier-weight products are gaining in popularity, the super-weight 11 ounce fleece, popular at department stores, hasn't yet penetrated the discount store market - primarily because of price. In general, higher-end stores went from 9 ounce fleece to 11 ounce fleece, while most discounters went from offering a 7 ounce product to a more substantial 9 ounce weight. Some price-sensitive retailers, however, are only moving toward even the 9 ounce fleece category at a cautious pace.

"We have not gone into the heavyweight (11 ounce) fleece because our customer is very price-conscious. [He or she is] looking for value," says Horace Washburn, divisional merchandise manager, men's, Roses, Henderson, N.C. The store offers some 9 ounce products, but remains committed to its 7 ounce offerings.

Roses has been successful with college-logo and sports-logo fleece tops and bottoms and anticipates a continuing sports-focused fleece market in the fall.