Young men's matures - men's clothing - Special Supplement: AM

Discount Store News, Sept 7, 1992 by Jill Lettich

The emphasis since then has been in maintaining a fashion-forward presence in the men's department, directed to the target baby boomer group.

Rist admits that it has been a "tough last 18 months" in young men's sales.

"Part of the young men's business in general is done in fashion color looks and contemporary styling," she notes. "But the volume business has been tough ."

Conversely, a regional chain like Prange Way that is not known primarily for its young men's area, is doing more in the volume market.

At Prange Way, after an LBO from Prange Co., in 1990, strategic changes were made in the soft lines mix at the store, including focusing in on older customers and in specialty areas like big & tall for men and plus sizes for women.

This has obviously changed the way these mass merchandisers look at young men's items: the basics are emphasized and young men's is promoted on a classification basis where it makes the most sense.

Unlike Sears, Prange Way's customer base causes the retailer to downplay its young men's area, according to Steve Katkin, executive vice president, merchandising. However, the category still performs adequately for the chain.

"Young men's has been good for us ," notes Katkin. "We don't separate out a young men's department, it's all part of our men's mix. The categories that have been doing well in that area are really things that cross age barriers. For instance, pocket T-shirts are selling to everyone from 17 to 70."

"We're positioned in a perfect place in terms of value for those kinds of items," Katkin says.

Even in what was once considered a traditionally "older" specialty category-men's big & tall--the styling makes the young men's area viable.

Larry Kelley, president, Casual Male Big & Tall, a value-oriented specialty store, maintains that "big & tall is a size not an age." Like full line discounters, Casual Male does not delineate a specific young men's area, but the fashion statements made within the store are shopper friendly and easy to understand.

"It's conceivable that you'll find both 16 to 60 year olds in the store. We have a good color mix and moderate price points. Both ages are going to buy fleece and one-pocket T-shirts. The young men's customer is buying a lot of the casual styles: active shorts, jeans, knits and fleece," Kelley says.

While retailers are still struggling with this market, there are a number of specific category trends occurring in young men's apparel.

"Newest trend is cross color looks," according to Clark. "Bright oversized knit tops and shorts are particularly important ."

Shorts have been a winner in both men's and young men's categories. For the young men's market, overall styles have done well. Rist notes that a cool summer did effect shorts sales in Sears' East Coast stores, but that it looked like it was picking up again for back-toSchool.

According to Clark the labels that are doing well in young men's include Gitano, Trilogy, Tax Venture, Santana High Advantage and Rigoletto.

Bugle Boy is another brand that tends to do well at mass merchandisers, particularly regional chains. With new brands expanding into the market--notably Everlast--the young men's area could show a resurgence, at least in some categories.