Belts, ties dress department: accessories add bottom-line pizzazz to apparel

Discount Store News, Sept 5, 1994 by James Mammarella

NATIONWIDE DSN REPORT -- "Consumers are keeping their apparel wardrobe a lot longer."

This assertion by David Penrod, divisional vp of fashion accessories and hosiery at Kmart, is a core idea that explains solid gains in the accessory departments by mass merchants. Penrod added that women in particular use accessories to extend interest and tweak the looks of the main wardrobe.

"They'll wear it with hair bows, with different earrings, put a belt on it, wrap a scarf on it--they are looking for multiple uses now," he said.

Cherylanne Brigida, accessories buyer for Hills Stores, Canton, Mass., agreed that a woman might appraise her wardrobe and conclude, "I can wear that again, no big deal: I'll buy some hair accessories or a new belt." However, Brigida observed, "I think this year our customer is spending a lot on apparel. When the whole outfit is new, the accessory part doesn't need to be changed." Theorizing that stronger apparel sales could depress sales in some accessory categories, she said, "I think the historical curve, in general, shows this indirect effect."

Although accessories are used to create overall looks, they are found in a variety of departments and are often merchandised as individual items. When one category is flat, another may be exploding. Looney Tunes and Disney are adding to the current surge in backpacks; the Indiglo lines are fueling the double-digit growth of Timex watches.

Meanwhile, there seems to be no current hot look in costume jewelry, according to Jane Thompson, divisional merchandise manager at Caldor, Norwalk, Conn. "The last great trend was the dream catcher. We did well with that made into earrings this past summer, but it's done now; the trends change quickly." She pointed out, "We can offer trends in fine jewelry at comparable price points: great earrings and bracelets under $20, from 10 karat to 14 karat gold." This is good business, but may draw away from costume jewelry sales within the store.

It pays to focus, according to Brigida. Hills has been expanding its accessories departments as stores are remodeled. "We have refocused our buys," said Brigida, "to make key statements. We're buying a whole side or two sides--not say, 24 pieces. It has worked in belts, worked in hats, and elsewhere."

Adjacency is more viable in children's accessories, said Kathy Hurley, vp, gmm, Rose's, Henderson, N.C. "We can pull costume jewelry together in boys' and girls' with the racks in close proximity to ready-to-wear. It's less so in ladies' sportswear, where accessories has its own department."

Cross-merchandising works with or without adjacency when a style is powerful enough. "Strong color plays through; there is definite color correlation in the sportswear area. The thermal, puckered textures, whether in bodysuits or knit tops, are still strong and translating into hair goods," Hurley said.

She added, "in the girls' 7-to 14-size area there is a strong interpretation of our juniors' looks."

Bob Greenwald, general merchandise manager at Jamesway, Secaucus, N.J., concurred, "Hair goods for ladies are always good; it's been steady. For kids, hair goods have been trending better. It's a color story, and thermal looks, anything textured from the look in clothing has been very good in hair goods."

Another strong note in headgear is denim, whether in earrings or caps. "Denim caps plain, stonewashed or with studs on them, are good," said Neil Buckley, divisional merchandise manager at Stuarts, Franklin, Mass. Two other current hat styles: "The newsboy hat, from long ago, is one. And the Mad Hatter, which is big and floppy with a big flower on it or with assorted patches."

The Mad Hatter has. been selling strong in the discount channel since last year; it may be a reliable winner next year as well. Of course, shoppers have their own finicky ways. "I have very fashionable customers in hair accessories," said Hills' Brigida, "but on a fixture two feet away I have a very mature customer in scarves."

Citing weather as a factor in accessories, Brigida said, "Wear now is selling. Last year at this time, I was selling leather, but this year I think it's warmer and they're still buying thermal, spider mesh, cotton interlock, crochet--all the open weave looks."

When spending their accessory dollars, customers can be persuaded to trade up somewhat, said Thompson of Caldor. "Only certain mills supply the cabled effects" for socks, which makes them a little more costly. As part of an assortment with plenty of basics, however, the items with more interesting fabrications prompt better overall sales.

And that's the whole idea with accessories: increase the average purchase in soft lines departments.

Kmart's Penrod named some quick-turning accessory merchandise from the first half of the year: "Braided belts, oblong scarves, hair accessories and straw hats; from spring on out they've been good."

Neil Buckley of Stuarts agreed that braided leather belts remain strong. "White leather braid in particular and white stretch belts; we run both as a basic. Bigger ornamentation on the buckle seems to help," he said.