Girls' styles catch up

Discount Store News, Sept 15, 1997

Conventional wisdom has long held that girls' styles always follow one season behind juniors.

But now that's changing, as retailers and suppliers scramble in a shrinking fashion cycle.

"Children's clothing is much more fashion-forward than ever before," says Lara Wegard, marketing coordinator for French Toast. "We see it in Europe, and right away it's showing up in kids'."

Adds Mike Diablo, vice president and licensing director for Allison Manufacturing Co., "Currently, we are in a very quick-paced fashion mode. The Wal-Marts of the world want to be able to interpret fashion in a snap."

Although traditional looks are still important in girlswear, up-to-the-minute fashions are providing the mass market with a shot in the arm, contributing significantly to 1997 sales that are running about 4 to 5 percent over a strong 1996.

"We're hoping to top last year by about 3 to 4 percent in our comparable stores," says Duckwall Alco's divisional merchandise manager Mike Gawin.

In addition to fashion interpretations, discount merchants are still relying on licenses to provide sales impetus, especially with the rerelease of Disney's "Little Mermaid" this fall.

But more than ever, little girls want to mimic what their moms and big sisters wear. "Our top three styles for girls are also our top three performers for women," says Caldor's Mark Minsky, senior vice president and general merchandise manager. "They are chenille sweaters, velours and overalls. Wide-leg jeans are also top performers in both categories and are emerging hot styles for fall."

Looking ahead for winter and spring of 1998, items with skiwear details are expected to be important.

"The look is active, with taping on sides," says Wegard. "We're also seeing more rubberized patching."

Joann Kirkwood, girls' designer for Longstreet, describes it as Adidas inspiration, which she says will gather steam for spring.

"There are also basketball influences from the ladies' basketball movement," she says.

Marguerite Whiteley, divisional vice president for children's, infants' and layette at Venture agrees that styles from ski slopes and sporting venues will set the pace. "We'll be seeing mock neck strips and velour in tops."

The popularity of sporting styles is expected to help retailers squeeze another strong year out of windsuits. "Leading growth were new products such as windsuits, and we had a terrific year with them," says Skip Chustz, senior vice president and general merchandise manager at ShopKo.

Beyond the sports styles, retro remains red-hot for girls. "Polyester dresses are hot, and sheer is huge," Kirkwood says.

Accents borrowed from the 1970s continue to take hold in girls'. Styles are accented with flower-child daisies, and gingham and plaid are making a return.

"Necklines are also changing with more keyhole necklines and mock turtlenecks," Diablo adds. The next trend to be recycled: the baby doll.

The breakneck speed of new fashion influences has brought a sales boost, but retailers express some concern about straying too far into fashion. "You have to hope you don't catch a trend that doesn't pan out," Chustz cautions.

Fear of having too much inventory has always been a problem with licensed merchandise, too. Retailers, however, are apparently excited about the prospects of Little Mermaid merchandise.

"Little Mermaid will be especially important for holiday and December," says Venture's Whiteley. She thinks the rerelease of the hit in theaters will spur sales.

Little Mermaid products did well the first time around, and the new crop of styles are even more fashionable. "More and more of a sense of fashion is being incorporated into licensed garments," says Diablo, who has the Little Mermaid license.

"However, style can't come at price's expense," he says. "Value plays an important part. We must be careful not to end up with a garment that is too expensive."