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Discount Store News, Oct 1, 1990 by Jill Lettich

Slow Fall Dampens MAGIC

Surfwear, Floral Ties Color Men's '91 Spring Offerings

LAS VEGAS -- Mission accomplished. That's how most manufacturers and retailers felt about their visit to the recent MAGIC (Men's Apparel Guild in California) trade show, held here.

Although many retailers were reeling from a less than spectacular back-to-school season, they came ready to forge ahead for spring. Surf-inspired activewear, sports licensed apparel and bright floral tie looks helped give the show an air of excitement and anticipation.

"Schools are open, but I don't know what the kids are wearing to class," said Bob Milgroom, president of sales, Bonjour International. He echoed the sentiments of many industry executives for whom back-to-school did not register the sales they had hoped for.

This caused retailers to maintain their cautious demeanors as they walked the convention center floor. "Cautious," was the most quoted word at the event.

But to most manufacturers' satisfaction, the buyers came with an open mind if not the largest open-to-buy kitty.

"There is concern about fall," said Bill Horne, president, Bassett-Walker."I see more retailers buying close to the vest and looking for more at-once buys than in a long time." Like other manufacturers, he noted that the lackluster back-to-school performance was not due entirely to a bad season, but to week-to-week variances at retail.

"Retailers had a bad back-to-school, so now they are concerned about inventory and about imports," Edgar Bran, executive vice president, Long Haul, agreed. On the first day of the show, traditionally "walk through day," traffic was light, but moving, he said. And like the retailers themselves, he adopted a "wait and see" attitude.

Manufacturers applauded the timing of the event, which was held a few weeks earlier than last year. The timing encouraged retailers to wait until this show to finalize their spring programs. "The troops are marching by," was Richard Alper's assessment of the show traffic. Alper is vp of Amerex of California, which produces the McGregor line of outerwear. "We had retailers looking at spring and holiday. Some are looking for real promotional things for fall." In true manufacturer fashion, he noted that "whatever they want we've got it or we'll get it."

Exhibitors reported mixed reactions to the buyer traffic. Some noting an increase, while others thought the aisles were sparser than last year. Some admitted consolidations and reorganizations at national retailers were partly responsible. Everyone, however, agreed that the level of participation from retail management was exceptional.

The list of retailers on hand read like a Who's Who of the discount industry roster. K mart, Wal-Mart, Target, Bradlees, Sears, Jamesway, Caldor, Fisher's Big Wheel, Rose's, Ross Stores, Hills, Clover, Jamesway, Stuarts, Marshalls, Alexander's, Pace and Filene's Basement were only the tip of the discount iceberg at the show.

Even Ames was well represented and welcomed. Suppliers such as M. Aron, which featured a lively tie collection and Chalk Line, a sports apparel manufacturer, said Ames, which filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in April, was "paying its bills on time."

Consistent with MAGIC shows of recent years, manufacturers reported that some of the larger chains came not to plunk down new orders, but to close up deals that had already been in the works. "It's not a writing show," said Robert Robertson, national sales manager, Hanes.

Jaimie Driscoll, a buyer at Filene's Basement, offered the view that "nobody's got paper," but that, at least for his store, a list of appointments reflected the old suppliers the company wanted to firm up deals with, and newer suppliers that were making a fashion or merchandising statement. Driscoll noted that he "bought for now."

The show does offer manufacturers opportunities to make broad statements about their purpose. For the larger firms, that means simply having the right booth design.

Levi Strauss & Co., which is the parent for the Brittania label of jeans sold at discounters, was in a section all its own at the show. Decorated with photos from its advertising campaigns introduced for fall, the firm took to heart its campaign to "re-emphasize denim jeans, and offer basics for a price-conscious consumer." Other corporate statements were made by Bonjour, Gitano, McGregor and Sasson. Each housed its array of licensees within one booth, for easier shopping.

That arrangement gave each label a cohesive look and tied together the various manufacturers.

When it came to fashion, the influence of the West Coast was evident in every category of merchandise at MAGIC. Though surfwear has been urbanized by companies such as Generation One, Sun Sportswear and E.S. Originals, the brights, the prints and the loose silhouettes were abundant.

Michael Haddad of Generation One, said the firm was working closely with Sears to develop a coordinated line of the lifestyle apparel.

Technology was also an important aspect of the more talked about merchandise at MAGIC. Screen printed T-shirts with repetitive logos and sport screen prints that simulate real photography on jackets were doing well.