Brands eye discount bra biz - Apparel

Discount Store News, Jan 6, 1992

Brands Eye Discount Bra Biz

Manufacturers are shaking up foundations. The appearance of a number of new labels of bras and daywear basics geared toward the mass market will make 1992 a volatile year for intimate apparel.

The added momentum in the category is coming despite a 1991 downturn in bra purchases. According to NPD Research, which tracks trends through its consumer purchase panel, unit purchases of bras were down by 1.9% last year. However, the bra business is expected to rebound this year. In fact, thanks to the continuing trend toward body-hugging stretch clothing, foundations, especially those that offer support, are likely to do well.

At the discount store level, a brand war is looming as a number of suppliers are betting consumers will look for specific brands.

"Women are very brand loyal in foundations. A bra is something that needs to fit correctly and be comfortable," said Kathy Reynolds, vice president, marketing, The Lovable Co.

Lovable is Bonjour's licensee for constructed bras and is itself forging a heavy ad campaign for the Lovable brand.

The move back to basics is a prime direction for the bra market. Coordinates are still doing well, but signs from retailers and manufacturers indicate that basics are back. For one thing, the newest bra introductions are coming from manufacturers already established in the basics segment of women's briefs and panties.

Fruit of the Loom recently named Warnaco Inc. as its licensee for bras. This will expand Fruit of the Loom's stance in the foundations market. FOL is already a commodity as a cotton brief supplier at discount stores.

Sara Lee Corp., parent of Hanes Her Way underwear, recently acquired Playtex Apparel Corp. Sara Lee is already in the bra business through the Bali label, but that is concentrated in upper-end retailers.

Sara Lee will benefit from an extensive network of retail connections that Playtex and Hanes have established at the discount level.

Jockey For Her, which has women's briefs at discount and women's hosiery at department stores, may also be an expansion target. Already offering matching camisoles to go with their briefs, Jockey For Her could be ready for an introduction of bras by the spring 1992, said a company spokesperson.

The challenge for buyers will be to balance the fashion and basics.

Brands like Bestform have grown to supplying fashion items in its own Show-Off shops at some retailers. In addition, sportswear names such as Chic, Gitano and Bonjour have made their mark in fashion foundations.

Currently, the basics are driving the market.

According to Linda Wachner, chairman and ceo, Warnaco, Fruit of the Loom will make its debut in discount stores in the second half of 1992. The underwear division has established itself as a basics brand driven by color - a theme likely to continue with the daywear line.

"We will be working with FOL to determine directions and colors. There will be no mistaking that the bras are a part of the FOL line," said Wachner.

At Alexander's, New York, the basics have been driving intimate apparel sales, according to Mary Fay, divisional merchandise manager. "We just added the Hanes Her Way packaged panties to our mix. It's been doing great." "There were fewer pieces in the Show-Off line this season. We did better business in basics," she said.

Of the newer labels, Warnaco was the most vocal about its future plans for the Fruit of the Loom label.

Wachner said Fruit of the Loom was expected to reap $100 million at retail in three years. Toward that end, a separate subsidiary has been established to run the mass market operation. Jay Bernstein, sales manager, will run the division. He was previously an executive with Playtex.

Fruit of the Loom bras will retail at between $7 and $12.

At those prices and with those already strong labels, buyers that have already had to balance fashion and basics in the foundations category will now have a new challenge: to balance all those brands.

PHOTO : Kmart, Levittown, N.Y.: Coordinates still dress up the foundations department, but basics are doing best at retail with discounters.